The Buyer
T-Oinos and the ‘beauty, identity & austerity’ of its unique winemaking

T-Oinos and the ‘beauty, identity & austerity’ of its unique winemaking

Winemakers the world over are looking for that unique place that can make wines true to where they come from. Well, they don’t get more isolated and protected than at T-Oinos, the super premium Greek producer on the tiny island of Tinos in the Cyclades where it is making wines that capture the energy and unique eco system that comes from what is such a harsh climate, battered by high winds and from ancient rock formations. Stephane Derenoncourt, T-Oinos’ master vigneron, explains what it is like to make wines in an area that has had “no influence from the outside world”.

Richard Siddle
18th December 2024by Richard Siddle
posted in People,People: Producer,

Can you explain the inspiration behind starting T-Oinos and what you wanted to achieve?

Inspiration came from the beauty of the place, the fragility of the ecosystem and the owner's philosophy. It is uncommon to find such isolated places, untouched by the outside world. The aim was to restore the identity of the place in the wine.

Why did you want to make wine on the island of Tinos where there was not a strong winemaking tradition?

The Buyer

T-Oinos' vines are situated at 470m on the remote, isolated Stegasta Plateau on Tinos

Because the terroir is unique, owing to the altitude, the granitic soils on which Assyrtiko thrives, and the schist terrasses on which Mavrotragano grows. The insularity of the region also enhances this terroir notion.

What does the soil and climate give you that you could not get anywhere else?

It is a tiny, totally isolated vineyard with a very specific ecosystem that receives no influence from the outside world or civilization, a rarity in today's world. The soils of Tinos and the harsh climate provide a unique freshness and intensity.

What have been the biggest challenges you have faced starting the winery and getting the vines and the wines to where they are now?

The major challenge has been the climate and especially water over the last few years. Rainfall levels have dropped by half and the sole answer is a precise, accurate viticulture, to force the vines to root very deeply. We therefore had to redefine a soil management itinerary, rethinking the grass cover so as to biologically remove soil compaction deep down so that the roots can get deeper.

What have been your biggest achievements and breakthroughs?

The Buyer

Vines and rocks: what makes T-Oinos such a unique place to make wine

What first inspired me in light of the beauty and magic of the place, along with the owner, Alexandre Avatangelos's philosophy, was to consider the vinification and ageing of the wines in a very pure way. When I taste the wine today, I feel like I'm in Tinos, the process no longer exists. The production of an identity wine reflecting its place.

Tell us about the new winery and what you hope this will mean for the wines you are able to make?

We often tend to consider cellars as a place for efficient vinification but above all as an aesthetic work of art. Our approach was instead to build a cellar in which the wine would feel as well as possible, by creating a natural ecosystem thanks to Canadian wells and a selection of materials that avoided any pollution. A place capable of creating its ecosystem as naturally as possible. The aesthetics will be discreet and integrated, in time, with the existing site.

You are also looking to expand the number of vines you have - where are you with those plans and what grapes will you be planting and why?

The Buyer

T-Oinis is looking at new planting areas particularly for white grape varieties

We are going to increase the production of the whites because we have some available areas within the Clos Stegasta. It is on these granitic soils that Assyrtiko thrives best. We will soon be planting one more hectare because recent droughts had an impact on total production and we must guarantee a minimum production to meet our demands.

What do you see as being the key characteristics of your wine that make them stand out?

The grapes have a memory and in these special conditions like in Tinos, in very austere conditions, rude conditions because of the lack of water, because of the dryness, because of the lack of clay, because it is a very granitic and sandy soil, because of the wind, because of the sea…all these kind of influences give something in the grapes when you taste it.

It’s very difficult to describe it in three words but I would say beauty, identity, austerity. You can picture the terroir directly in the glass.

What are you outstanding ambitions for the vines, winery and the wines?

The Buyer

T-Oinos is proud of the contribution it has been able to make to the people and island of Tinos

To maintain and where possible improve the identity of our wines we are so far fully satisfied with. These are pure wines true to their origin, with a naturality far away from any technicality. As far as winemaking is concerned pureness and simplicity are the long way off.

You are also very close to the local community on the island - how important is that to you and what steps have you taken to help them make feel part of the project and benefit from it?

On a direct front, we are working with local people who feel a certain pride in being part of this project. On an indirect front, this micro-economy is a source of great international recognition, thanks to the success of the wines, and thus enables the island, Tinos, to reinforce its reputation.

You have a close winemaking team - how did you choose the winemakers you wanted to work with?

We are working with a local team, only Thanos [Georgilas] the winemaker is from Athens. We expect him to not only embrace our production philosophy but also pass it on to the local workers.

Where are your biggest markets for your wines and how are you growing them?

The Buyer

T-Oinos is in the enviable position of having more demand for its wines than it can make

We have small markets all over Europe, the US, the UK and Asia. Demand is higher than production, which keeps us from having large-scale development plans, so our idea is to meet our partners and place our wines on quality networks for experienced wine tasters.

What is the most enjoyable aspect of the work you do and the wines you make?

Walking through the vineyards tasting the grapes at harvest time and making the blends.

Anything else to say?

For me, traveling to T-Oinos has become a need, a unique place that provides me with a special energy and allows me to re-energise.

* To find out more about T-Oinos and its terroir and winemaking go to its website here.

* T-Oinos is a commercial partner to The Buyer.