Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill, first launched in 1975, embodies the Champagne that Churchill cherished: rich, robust, and complex. The latest release, the 2015 vintage, marked the 21st edition, joining previous vintages in a “treasure hunt” for large-format bottles, as described by Paul Richards, global head of wine at 67 Pall Mall. Some bottles were sourced from the secondary market due to their rarity.
Apart from the 1975 inaugural year – when only magnums were produced for the UK, which was not available during the tasting – the other releases were presented in magnums, with the 1988 vintage served in jeroboam.
Hubert de Billy and James Simpson (far l-r) hosted this remarkable members-only event at 67 Pall Mall
The evening was co-hosted by Hubert de Billy, fifth-generation and director of Pol Roger, and James Simpson MW, managing director of Pol Roger Portfolio. George Repard, the great-great-grandson of Sir Winston Churchill, opened the event, recounting the long-standing bond between the Churchill and Pol Roger families. He recalled how Churchill’s relationship with the house deepened after 1945, and how, following his death in 1965, Pol Roger paid tribute by encasing their UK-bound labels in black borders – an emotional gesture marking the loss of a loyal friend and customer.
Since the debut of Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill in 1975, Pol Roger has continued to seek the Churchill family's blessing for each new release, ensuring that the legacy of mutual respect endures.
An enduring relationship: a portrait of Madame Odette Pol-Roger next to a bottle of Winston Churcill greets visitors at the House in Épernay
During the event, a previously unknown story was shared by Simpson MW.
While researching archives during the pandemic, Pol Roger UK discovered a note in the old Duke of Marlborough's archives. It was revealed that, on the funeral train carrying Churchill’s coffin to Oxfordshire, tables had been laid with bottles of Pol Roger, alongside a handwritten card from Churchill that read, "Don't be despondent, have a drink, love Winston," which illustrates the deep relationship shared by the two families.
De Billy reflected on the origins of Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill, explaining that the Champagne was designed not to replicate the exact wines Churchill enjoyed but to create something he would likely appreciate today. In Churchill’s era, wine was fermented in barrels, reinforced with cognac, and sealed with corks, resulting in some bottle variation. However, Pol Roger’s modern approach, he explained, has shifted away from these practices.
“Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill is a version of champagne with a bit of fairytale behind it,” de Billy quipped, underscoring the uniqueness of the release.
The blend of Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill is a closely guarded secret, but it is widely known to feature a high percentage of Pinot Noir, with “a zest of Chardonnay,” de Billy revealed.
During the tasting, it was revealed that Pol Roger will soon release some of its carefully stored museum stock, including the vintage, Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill, Blanc de Blanc, and Rosé. De Billy has preserved several hundred bottles in optimal conditions in Pol Roger’s cellar since the early 2000s.
Author Leona de Pasquale and Hubert de Billy, 67 Pall Mall, London
De Billy also shared the fascinating history behind Pol Roger’s 1914 vintage.
During the First World War, Maurice Pol Roger, the family patriarch and mayor of Épernay, enlisted local women to harvest the crop while the men were at the front. His aim was to sustain the local economy, and to facilitate this, he printed his own currency. “It was a lot easier to do that then and we still have some of the bills signed,” explained de Billy.
The resulting vintage was exceptional and in large quantities, and they began selling the stock from 1924. In 1934, they decided to hold back the remaining stock and sell other vintages before it was too late.
This is why Pol Roger now holds two distinct stocks of the 1914 vintage: one that has never been disgorged, which, as de Billy describes, is very “mushroomy,” and the other, disgorged in 1934, now lighter, brighter, and much better as a wine compared to the un-disgorged stock.
As the evening drew to a close, de Billy was asked whether Pol Roger would remain family owned. He affirmed that the Champagne house’s "soul and spirit" are inextricably linked to its family ownership.
While balancing business demands with family dynamics presents challenges, he emphasised that this approach allows the character of the family to shine through in their wine.
"A part of us is in the bottle," he concluded, underscoring the dedication and passion that family ownership brings to Pol Roger’s craftsmanship.
How were the different vintages tasting?
During the tasting, James Simpson MW noted that Pol Roger has a particular fondness for the '8s' across the decades, from 1928 onwards. Sadly, the 1988 Jeroboam fell a little short of expectations during the tasting, while the 1998 was somewhat reserved and possibly still too young. However, the 2008 was absolutely glorious.
For me, the standout vintages were the '5s' – 1985, 1995, and 2015 – each remarkable in their own right. The early 2000s, including the 2002, 2004, 2006, 2008, and 2009, also stood out as superbly delicious. The youngest releases, namely the 2012, 2013, and 2015, are showing exceptional promise for future development. While they are lovely to drink now, I would certainly recommend holding off a little longer, if possible.
Here’s my top 10 from the evening
1985: A deep gold hue with a delicate effervescence, offering a charming, nutty, and savoury nose.
1995: A truly exceptional wine, with notes of acacia honey, hazelnut, dried fruit, and a lingering finish.
2002: Bright and lively, with beautiful red fruit notes and enormous potential for future development.
2004: Perfectly balanced for drinking now, with savoury honey, truffle, and nutty undertones.
2006: Equally delicious, with a generous style and hints of nutty, leathery character.
2008: Elegant and poised, yet generous in its richness, with nutty and brioche notes and huge ageing potential.
2009: Gastronomically compelling, with bright stone fruit intensity and a biscuity edge.
2012: So vibrant and harmonious, with fresh citrus notes and a wonderful structure.
2013: Beautifully tense, with a nose reminiscent of apricot cornetto, drizzled with almond flakes.
2015: A nose of almond croissant, generous and rich, with a beautifully long finish.
Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill is imported and sold into the UK by Pol Roger Portfolio which is a commercial partner of The Buyer. To discover more about them click here.
