Capensis, Silene Chardonnay 2020, WO Stellenbosch, 14% abv
A blend of top-quality fruit from four vineyards in Stellenbosch, including the prime 640m Fijnbosch site in one of the district’s highest wards, Banghoek. The idea for it came from owner Barbara Banke, the American proprietor of Jackson Family Wines who, according to winemaker Graham Weerts, ‘fell in love’ with Stellenbosch Chardonnay. It is the only grape Capensis produce. Attractive citrus allure with silky texture from lees contact. Elegant and fresh with a touch of salinity as well as spice and toasty notes from 30% new oak.
Cederberg, Nieuwoudt Five Generations Chenin Blanc 2022, WO Cederberg, 13.5% abv
As good a Chenin Blanc as you will find in South Africa. David Nieuwoudt, whose grandfather Pollie planted what are the highest vineyards in the Cape Winelands (at over 1000 metres) in the spectacular Cederberg Mountains, is a master winemaker of this grape. This was the first year that concrete eggs were used for some of the must (10%), boosting richness in the wine’s tantalising texture. Elevage for eleven months in oak (20% new) adds further structure. Whole-bunch pressed and barrel-fermented with wild yeasts, this western Cape classic has huge concentration, complexity and length.
De Martino, Viejas Tinajas Tinto 2022, Guarilihue, Itata, Chile, 13% abv
An elegant single varietal Cinsault from dry-farmed vines planted in 1975 in Itata, southern Chile. Fermentation and ageing for 8 months in clay vats (tinajas) that are over 100 years old. 8% whole bunch (in one tinaja) adds some complexity, grip and structure. Glorious red fruit, medium body and suave tannins make a second glass - or bottle - very appealing. Available in UK through Enotria&Coe, De Martino’s main British partner.
Humberto Canale, Old Vineyard Riesling 2024, Rio Negro, Argentina, 13.3% abv
Wonderful Patagonian Riesling from vines planted on own roots in 1937 (La Morita vineyard). Phylloxera has never reached this arid, semi-desert region of year-round sunshine and low disease pressure. Real intensity to the super-clean lemon and white peach fruit, which was harvested with a pH of 3.0. Steely minerality from flood-irrigated Rio Negro, whose source is in the Andes. Available in the UK through the Great Wine Co (£22).
Leonardslee, Brut Reserve 2021, Sussex, England, 11.5% abv
The first vintage of Leonardslee, owned by the Streeter family, and what a debut! Top-notch traditional method English sparkling wine that spent up to 30 months on the lees, and has a dosage of 7.5g/l. 70% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir, 10% Pinot Meunier. Very high levels of acidity (TA 8.9g/l) led to 100% malolactic fermentation. Some reserve wine from 2020 used. Vibrant yet elegant with green apple notes, grapefruit zest and hints of yeastiness and brioche. Fine mousse with lovely mouth-filling texture and impressive length. Hats off to Benguela Cove head winemaker, Johann Fourie, who flies in at key times from South Africa to mastermind production at the estate just outside Horsham.
Pommery, Apanage Brut 1874, 12.5% abv
Only just released in November 2024 to celebrate the 150th anniversary of Pommery’s creation of the first ever Brut Champagne in 1874. An ‘Apanage’ was a grant of land or revenue by a French sovereign to a member of the royal family, and was therefore evocative of distinction. This is a blend of three vintages - 2018, 2015, 2012 - all spending four years on the lees. Fruit (around a third each of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier) came from 17 villages. A persistent mousse with delicate aromas of white flowers and orange blossom give way to notes of citrus fruits, pear and apricot. These gradually open up to more complex, autolytic flavours of honey, almond, hazelnut and brioche.
Quinta S.Joao Batista, Reserva de Biodiversidade, DO Tejo 2016, Portugal, 14% abv
A blend of Touriga Franca (70%) and Alicante Bouschet (30%) from the Tejo denomination north-east of Lisbon. Elevage in second and third fill oak for six months. Very appetising red fruit with lots of intensity as well as soft tannins and a lengthy finish. Great value mid-market wine (€16 retail) from a lesser-known region of Portugal that deserves, and looks set for, greater recognition.
Santa Rita, Casa Real Cabernet Sauvignon 2022, Maipo Valley, Chile 14% abv
Flagship Casa Real label of Santa Rita from their low-yielding, old Cabernet vines, planted in 1978 to a density of 3,800 plants per hectare on alluvial soils in Alto Maipo. Veteran winemaker Andrés Ilabaca has crafted a princely Chilean Cabernet with majestic black fruit, earthy tannins and a tobacco kick. Oak (30% new) is well-judged. Extraction also neatly effected, with pump-overs but no punchdowns (nor cold soak). Fruit 100% de-stemmed. Complex with great concentration and a long life ahead of it.
Sunal, Icono Malbec 2017, DO Valles Calchaquies, Argentina 14.5% abv
Top-class extreme altitude Malbec from the far north of Argentina, produced by leading winemaker Agustín Lanús. A blend of micro-terroirs from three provinces in the Calchaquí Valley - Salta, Tucumán and Catamarca - with altitudes ranging from 2,100m to 2,750m. Deep purple, full-bodied and multi-layered, the wine is a complex cornucopia of dark fruits - black plum, blackberry, black olives with balsamic and spicy notes.
Vinos Lof, Syrah 2022, DO Maipo Andes, Chile 13.5% abv
Vinos Lof, a 3-hectare boutique winery co-owned by Perez Cruz winemaker Germán Lyon and wife Francisca Gaete, is one of nine that have formed a new association of small-scale Alto Maipo producers called MaipOrigen. To qualify, each had to be organically-farmed and family-owned, with a maximum annual output of 50,000 bottles. Lyon, one of Chile’s best winemakers, has fashioned a beautifully balanced wine with soft tannins, seductive red and black fruit with herbal and pepper notes. Minerality from volcanic soils and freshness from cool nights. ‘Lof’ is the indigenous word for ‘clan.’ Available in the UK through Virgin Wines (£24.99). The other eight members of MaipOrigen are Caviahue Wines, Viñateros de Raíz, Chateau Potrero Seco, Viña Los 3, Mujer Andina Wines, Los Quiscos, Rukumilla and La Viña del Señor.
