“This summer’s New Wines Tasting in Covent Garden was a first chance to discover what treasures the Jeroboams buying team had found,” writes Turner.
Jeroboams
Many moons ago, when I was living in London, I was based a stone’s throw from Hampstead village. Initially I was more concerned with the all-you-can-eat Sushi Sundays and the never-ending sales at Reiss for those work chinos. But slowly, as I became more adventurous with my wine trying and buying, I started shopping at Jeroboams. It really felt like it was the wine shop to go to for any serious wine lover in NW3 and, given its locations in other fairly well-to-do areas of London, it was very clear on its target customers and had a wine list to match.
Following on from the strength of the Jeroboams brand, the fairly recent rebrand of its Laytons on-trade business made a lot of sense. Its work with a plethora of family-run wineries with great stories and great wines from across the world hits the mark with all consumers, whether buying a bottle or two in the shops for the weekend’s dinner party, or choosing from the list of their favourite local restaurant. But given the speed at which times and tastes (and the economy) changes, so too must the portfolio and new, fresh additions are as important as the old favourites. This summer’s New Wines Tasting in Covent Garden was a first chance to discover what treasures the buying team had found.
Jeroboams Trade New Wines Tasting, London, 2023
Jeroboams business development director, Michael Robins, oversaw the host of press, trade and Jeroboams staff (from across its retail and on-trade operations) tasting their way through the new line-up. A long-standing member of the team, he revealed what was so exciting for him about the wines being added to the portfolio.
“In my time here we’ve traditionally been more well known for our Burgundy and Bordeaux offering, so it’s been great to increase our New World offering,” reflected Robbins. “It’s important that we don’t go too far too soon, we represent 700 wines, up from around 500 in 2019. But we’re very lucky as an owner-led, sommelier-led company. Having the likes of Maggie Macpherson, Martin Tickle and Peter Mitchell MW choosing the wines, and Lucie Parker at the helm of our trade business, we feel perfectly placed to offer great wines and great service. It’s a good place to be.”
And so to the tasting. 100 wines on show, nine countries represented, and a healthy price range of £7 to £75 DPD, meant there really was something for everyone. I picked out a few of my favourites for you to mark your cards…
Further French fancies
As Robbins alluded to, Jeroboams has built a reputation on its offerings from both Burgundy and Bordeaux. The new additions to the Burgundy range reflect the shifting attention of many Burgundy lovers towards the southern areas of Côte Chalonnaise or Mâconnais, or even the lesser known appellations of the Côte D’Or. Whether that be through sheer interest as the average quality of these regions continue to rise, or whether it’s because old school Burgundy treasures are now eye-wateringly expensive for the average punter, it’s great to see more choice from eastern France’s prized vineyards.
Mâcon-Villages, Boisson Frere et Soeur, 2020, DPD £24.95
It’s a real coup for the Jeroboams team to be able to sell the fabulous Mâcon-Villages from Pierre Boisson. Makers of some of the most sought-after wines of Burgundy from its base in Meursault, this parcel of vines is Pierre’s first main foray south to add wines from the Mâconnais to the portfolio, as well as a hedge against both rising prices further north, and climate change. £25 DPD might not sound like a more affordable option of Burgundy, but tasting that beautiful balance of citrus, smoke and butter with a super long, luxurious finish? This is a top, top level Burgundy white, so that price all of sudden looks very cheap!
Marsannay, Les Vignes Marie, Domaine Derey Frères, 2020, DPD £22.86
A lot of people start their journey south from Dijon with Gevrey-Chambertin, but there are two fairly well-known village appellations in between, namely Marsannay and Fixin. Domaine Derey Frères can trace its grape-growing roots in the region back to 1650 in the same village of Couchey that brothers Pierre-Marie, Maxime and Romain continue to produce reds and whites from Marsannay and reds from Fixin. I was able to try both next to each other, and neither were short of lovely ripe red cherries, strawberry and rose petal notes, but I felt the Marsannay had a touch more integrated acidity, as well as a touch more tannic grip for those food lovers out there.
Vieux Château Saint André, Montagne Saint-Émilion, 2018, DPD £18.90
And so to Bordeaux…and so to Vieux Château Saint André. For full disclaimer, I met Jeff Berrouet many years ago through a mutual friend. I had no idea about the whole ‘Pétrus connection’ of the family, I just sat and tasted some fabulous wines with a very engaging guy. In the following years I’ve been delighted to see the growing reputation of the Berrouet family estates under Jeff’s control, with Bordeaux icon Jane Anson herself declaring this wine as “a true insider’s wine”! Bursting with red fruit, minerality and tannic grip, the concentration of this wine shows off what Montagne can do in the right hands. This will knock spots off half the Saint Émilion Cru Classé you have on your lists!
Impressive Italians
Italy’s always been my first love, and any time I get a chance to see what new things are being brought over to the UK I get absurdly optimistic. Strangely for me I haven’t picked any Piemontese wines in my favourites, although an honourable mention must go to another of the ever-improving Dolcettos we’re seeing on these shores, this time from Diego Conterno. But it was edged out by a set of wines that I think can really add some point of difference, as well as some healthy margin, to your lists.
Piandimare, Monolith, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Riserva, 2019, DPD £12.48
Abruzzo has a fair old reputation as the land of fruity, smashable wines from Montepulciano and Trebbiano. That doesn’t make them bad, it just hasn’t always allowed the better wines, made here on Italy’s central east coast and hillsides, to shine. This Riserva is a meaty wine, with plenty of dark berry fruits, liquorice and smoke, with big shoulders on it. This would be a very easy sell to anyone asking you to supply them for their weekend barbeque.
Butussi, Ribolla Gialla, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC, 2022, DPD £15.44
Although the standard of Italian white wines is undoubtedly rising year on year, there are few regions I’d recommend more if you want a classy Italian white than Friuli. The Butussi family has been growing grapes in the Prà di Corte valley since 1910, and one would imagine Ribolla Gialla has been there from the start. Beautiful blossom, citrus, stone and tropical notes on the nose and palate, as well as fabulous texture from a decent 12-16 hour skin maceration, and that tell-tale almond bitter touch to the end. For what it’s worth, I also quite like the old school label!
Bakkanali, Bakkanali Rosso NV, IGT Tosacana, DPD £25.71
As I walked into the tasting and I chatted with Michael Robbins, this was one of the first wines he spoke about. I was told I had to try it. Good advice Mr Robbins! I think this actually might have been my first low intervention, natural yeast and unoaked Sangiovese from Tuscany, and it was fabulous. Incredibly expressive plums, cherries, wild raspberries and violet notes, with a really crunchy texture on the mouth and just enough acidity to make it all work.
New World expansion
It’s certainly not fair to say that Jeroboams didn’t have a decent list of ‘New World’ wines before, but even they would admit that France has dominated their portfolio, ably followed by Italy and Spain. So it was with real enthusiasm that the team showed off new wines and producers from the likes of South Africa, Argentina, Australia, New Zealand and the US. Three really stood out for me, but again I need to give honourable mentions to a couple of very good value wines that didn’t quite make the list. The Stonehorse Grenache from Barossa Valley, as well as the Pavette Pinot Noir from Central Coast, California are both wines I’d happily guzzle most days of the week, and both under £15 DPD. But without further ado…
Fram, Dry White Wine NV, Olifants River, South Africa, £12.18 DPD
Fram is a bit of a statement signing for Jeroboams. Although only a nudge over a decade old, its reputation for making outstanding wines from the lesser known spots of the Western Cape has seen world-wide acclaim at brilliant prices. I was tempted to wax lyrical about its Citrusdal Mountain Chenin, which reminds you just why South Africa is so celebrated for this grape, but…you know…I didn’t. I’ve gone for its NV Dry White wine, a blend of Palomino with South African specialities Chenel and Hanepoot, with a portion of natural oak fermentation, this wine has that joyous mix of being sharp and crisp with lemon, grapefruit and salinity, with a creamy, textured palate. Magic for food pairing.
Achaval-Ferrer, Quimera Tinto 2020, Mendoza, Argentina, £27.79 DPD
This wine feels a bit like the future of Argentina, being a blend of the famous Malbec with the increasingly fabulous quality Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc being produced in Mendoza. OK, and a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, but point being is that of all the wines on show from Achaval, this one was a perfect bridge between the entry level varietal range to the more expensive single vineyard range. Deep dark fruits, liquorice and subtle wood spice, this is a fairly full-bodied wine with a ripe, sweet fruit finish that has every opportunity to become a firm favourite at any steak restaurant in the land.
Newfound, Shake Ridge Grenache 2019, Amador County, California, £33.42 DPD
As a notorious penny pincher, I buy into the idea that wines from the USA are “fabulous…as long as someone else is paying.” That’s why I was so keen to give an honourable mention to the Pavette Pinot, above. But sometimes you try a wine that just begs to be written about and this single varietal Grenache from the inland Sierra Foothills in California ticked the box. A relatively young set-up, established in 2016, the winemakers have used whole bunches in the tanks, and foot-treading to kick off the spontaneous fermentation. Vibrant, ripe red strawberries and raspberries, sage and rosemary, and a stony minerality note. On the palate it’s got beautiful acidity keeping it super fresh but well structured. A wine to buy now, but a producer to definitely keep an eye on for the future.
For more information about the wines of Jeroboams, or to arrange a tasting or interview with the team, please contact Astrid Lewis at Spritz Marketing on astrid@spritzmarketing.co.uk
Mike Turner is a freelance writer, presenter, educator, judge and regular contributor for The Buyer through his editorial company Please Bring Me My Wine. He also runs a wine events and ecommerce business, Feel Good Grapes, that explores and discusses the idea of sustainability in the wine trade.
