Pinot Noir New Zealand 2025 was the latest iteration of a long-established celebration of Pinot Noir, first set up in 2001, and hosted every four years, although 2021 was cancelled due to Covid. The setting was in the beautiful city of Ōtautahi Christchurch which had to be partially rebuilt and re-established after the devastating earthquake of 2011.
Held at the Te Pae Christchurch Convention Centre, Pinot Noir New Zealand 2025 was split across three days and three themes: Place, Care and Time to Come
Pinot Noir New Zealand 2025 was not merely a celebration and shop window to highlight the spectacular quality of Pinot Noir that New Zealand produces, it was also a hard-hitting wake-up call.
Industry concerns over the past 12 months have been dominated by very real challenges, including flat or declining sales, high inventory levels, tough economic conditions, cost increases, falling global demand for wine, and supply chain destocking. Domestically, last year NZ wine saw a decline of 8% in total wine sales and, in exports, value was down 11% on the previous year's record-breaking total.
Covid, financial restraints and global competition have all helped curtail the New Zealand market in recent years; added to this is the negativity caused by bulk, mass-produced Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, which has done nothing to help New Zealand’s profile as a producer of prestige, pristine wines.
On an even greater macro level the conference also addressed environmental issues that, as custodians of this land, producers need to wake up and individually make changes towards, so as not to leave insurmountable problems for future generations.
Kiwi Stories was chaired by Steve Smith MW and featured: Jonathan Hamlet, Craggy Range; Nigel Greening, Felton Road; Jim White, Cloudy Bay; Dr. Amber Parker, Centre for Viticulture & Oenology
There were hard hitting speeches from guest speakers, some that challenged even their own sustainability, but these were balanced by speakers such as Dr Jamie Goode, who not only makes science a fun topic but showcased the great work winemakers across the globe are achieving with sustainability and regeneration. The no-nonsense Nigel Greening from Felton Road, also talked here about the need to be inclusive not exclusive, sharing good practices rather than locking people out.
Also worth stressing here that delegates to Pinot Noir New Zealand 2025 were made aware throughout the conference of the ancestral importance of the Maori and their culture which was highlighted and explained throughout.
So let’s talk Pinot
In a world where prices have gone off the charts in some wine regions, I see New Zealand at the forefront of delivering fabulous, beautiful Pinot Noir as a wine that is to be enjoyed, that brings a glow and smile and made as a style of wine that has few boundaries on the culinary map.
Inspiring speeches on the joy of New Zealand Pinot, such as one by Wine Enthusiast’s Christina Pickard, were tempered by the negativity of the New York Times Wine critic, Eric Asimov, whose opening line was “I have never been to New Zealand before,” followed by “due to the difficulty in sourcing New Zealand Pinot in the USA I do not write about it.”
After speaking to many of the industry’s leaders, they felt that Asimov’s brutally honest contribution may have been a useful wake-up call (although a week later at the Central Otago Pinot conference the critic did not cover himself in glory when he admitted to never having heard of South Africa’s Hemel-en-Arde wine region, which produces some of the world’s very best Pinot).
Back at Pinot Noir New Zealand 2025 we were treated to inspiring tales from wine producers such as Alan Brady, Larry McKenna and Paul Pujol and a brilliant and fun educational chat by British TV personality Olly Smith.
Past Pinot conferences have relied a bit too heavily on comparisons to Burgundy and, although NZ wine pioneer Alan Brady had wanted to showcase a DRC to the 450 delegates, common sense and cost restraints meant he swapped that for a rather fine Martinborough Pinot instead.
We did, however, try some excellent wines from Burgundy, Oregon and Napa to give a sense of balance but unquestionably for me the stars were from NZ, albeit not all having been made by 100% Kiwis – the global influence by both foreign winemakers and investors is imperative to the make-up of New Zealand Pinot Noir.
The Pinot Noir New Zealand 2025 conference also took us on a magical heavenly culinary experience, showcasing the very best that this unique country brings. I have never before encountered the traditional Māori Hangi which really does kick the South African Braai or the Big Green Egg into touch. Two kilo wild crayfish wrapped in seaweed, Abalone, the unique Muttonbird (or Titi in Maori) all cooked overnight in a pit. The Muttonbird is an experience that will stay with me for ever. Think English Teal (Mallard), salted for six months then cooked slowly overnight, giving a salty anchovy gastronomic hit.
A visit to Waitaki Valley
What also became clear was the importance of Pinot Noir not only from Central Otago, where I am currently enjoying their very own Pinot Conference www.roamcentral.co.nz but from other established regions such as Marlborough, North Canterbury and Martinborough.
Newer on the scene is Waitaki Valley based in North Otago. This spectacularly scenic microclimate involved a three-hour road trip from Christchurch and then a blockbuster 6-seater micro plane flight taking us the last stretch, bouncing off the winds of the Southern Alps and Mount Cook… it made me think that maybe we should have curtailed our late-night exuberance of Christchurch’s excellent bars the night before!
With vines planted first in 2001, we were also welcomed into the valley by the adventurous pioneering Grant Taylor of Valli Wines and Dr John Forrest. Taylor is so impressed with the region that he now lives here and has established a Valli Wine Shop and Bar in the tiny town of Kurow.
This complex valley balances limestone, greywacke and schist soils in perfect harmony not only producing outstanding cool climate Pinot Noir but an array of Rieslings that cover the essence of Mosel, Alsace, Mount Baker and Eden Valley. Plus, pure, focused Chardonnay, newcomers to the area include Tekano www.tekanoestate.com which is an impressive forward-thinking enterprise with vines both here and in Central Otago.
We met family vineyards that can’t even keep up with cellar door sales, let alone pushing sales to their near neighbours in Cromwell and Queenstown – this is a region that will excel, not on a huge scale, but they are wines that will become highly sought after.
Pinot Noir New Zealand 2025 finished with a Celebration Gala Dinner
I can’t list my favourite New Zealand Pinot Noirs as there are far too many, what I can do, of course, is to highlight the natural progression over the years as styles change and we seek more precise wines. I urge you to immerse yourselves in Pinot Noir with New Zealand at the forefront in making the very best.
I continue my travels across New Zealand with further reports to come over the next week or so.
With thanks to New Zealand Wine Growers, Pinot Noir New Zealand, Central Otago Winemakers, Waitaki Valley Winemakers, Cathay Pacific Airlines.
