First things first - what does being a “wine writer in residence” actually mean?
Well hotels have had writers and residence and artists in residence before so why not a wine writer in residence? Not that I am actually moving in (I’m too fond of Bristol) but I’ll be closely associated with the Pilgrm’s wine programme and ongoing series of talks.
How has it come about?
Sadly the 'wine writer in residence' position does not allow for free bed and board at the Pilgrm hotel
One of those wonderful brainstorming chats with the general manager Sylwia Kaczyca. The Pilgrm which is conveniently three minutes away from Paddington Station has become my home from home in London. I love staying there, know the staff and to be working with them is just icing on the cake.
What does the Pilgrm want to achieve by bringing you on board?
They like to work with all kinds of creatives but in my case I would say it was to consolidate their image as a hotel with an exciting and innovative drinks programme.
Why did you want to take on this role after your time working at The Guardian?
Because it’s fun to try different things. I had been with the Guardian for 14 years! Time for fresh challenges (even at my age) though I did also want to be free to travel more.
You have some talks and tastings planned - what can we look forward to?
Fiona Beckett’s writing role at the Pilgrm hotel will also include hosting wine tastings, talks and helping to pick special wines for the wine list
The first, on October 16 is called How to Taste Wine (and describe what you find in your glass). I find that’s the most daunting thing for a lot of people. They don’t know exactly what they should be saying about the wine they’re tasting - what is the ‘correct’ language to use. A needless worry in my opinion as I hope to reassure them.
Then there will be one on how to moderate your drinking in January and a food and wine pairing in the spring which we plan to do in collaboration with a chef.
How did you decide on what topics and issues to cover and wines to taste and explore?
The audience that interests me most has always been people who love food and enjoy cooking but who feel nervous and tentative about wine. So the tastings will be accessible, down to earth and confidence boosting. I’ll aim to introduce them to wines they don’t know but also give them a reference point in terms of wines with which they’re more familiar.
You are also working on the wine lists at the hotel - have you done this kind of work before and what will that entail?
Actually in this case I’m just picking out a wine of the month which may be from their existing list, or one I’ve come across in my tastings or travels. But I have done wine lists before, yes.
Fiona Beckett has worked with Pilgrm hotel’s wine manager Emily Harman before when hosting an event for International Women’s Day
Emily Harman is still curating the list at The Pilgrm and I love what she’s done with it. We’ve hosted a couple of tastings together including one on natural wine and a very successful one earlier this year for International Women’s Day.
What other plans do you have for 2025 and how you hope to expand and develop the role?
More live events for sure but also focussing on my website matchingfoodandwine.com and my Substack Eat This, Drink That, Live Well. The website is more like a library, the Substack more like a blog with topical recommendations and tips. Having given away my expertise for years I’m taking the big step of putting part of the website behind a paywall which I hope readers will consider fair. I’ve lost track of the number of people who come up to me at tastings and say we (meaning their company) use your website all the time. I think it’s about time I charged for that. I’m open to other offers.
How do you now look back on your time at The Guardian and what you were able to achieve there?
Fiona Beckett was The Guardian's weekly drinks columnist for 14 years
A career high. To write about the subject you’re passionate about for the newspaper you read and love. It doesn’t get better than that.
What will you miss?
Telling people I’m the Guardian’s wine writer.
What won't you miss?
Having to think what to write about each week. The money - as you know wine writers are not especially well paid.
What do you see as the role of a newspaper wine columnist or critic if they are to be a success?
Know your readers who, of course, fall into more than one camp. At the Guardian I’d say about 50% wanted me to focus on wines under £5 and 50% were outraged if I did. But I always remember my editor saying when I took the job on. “Remember the teacher in Bolton”. Meaning the Guardian’s core readership were ordinary working people outside London often in the public sector.
Don’t get up yourself in other words.
Did that change during the time you were there?
I think there’s a new generation of younger drinkers who are much more open minded and willing to spend money on what they drink. Not just wine either. Beer, cider, spirits and alcohol-free drinks. They don’t put wine on a pedestal in the same way as their parents and grandparents. They’re simply interested in good drinks and the stories behind them.
What other writing and freelance plans do you have?
I’m still writing regularly for Decanter and National Geographic Traveller Food.
- You can follow Fiona Beckett’s writing on Substack here.
- Her matching food and wine matching website is here.
- You can catch up on her writing for The Guardian here.
