David Hohnen’s new Marlborough Heartland wine project is the result of forging a new partnership with Rupert Clevely, an old winemaking ally of Hohnen’s and founder of Crackerjack Wines. They wanted to make a wine that “is the expression of the intimate relationship between the land, the grower, and the winemaker” and also best captures “the unique character of the Marlborough region and quality delivered by growers whose roots and passion lie deep in the heart of Marlborough”.
As Clevely says the project is all about “getting the best juice, the best fruit from the original heartland of Marlborough. And then the most important thing is that the wine tastes bloody good. I think it’s the most exciting project I’ve been involved in for many years.”
Here David Hohnen shares his thoughts:
Tell us about your new winemaking project in the Marlborough Valleys?
David Hohnen with his new wine: Marlborough Heartland
Three years ago, I returned to Marlborough. It had been an absence of 20 years from a place I had regarded as my second home. Ivan Sutherland introduced me to the principals at the Marlborough Grape Growers Cooperative. The opportunity to work with a bunch of Kiwi farmers was a thrill.
The Coop is very good at making wine. We suggested a joint venture in a label. The farmers I spoke to loved the idea and the Coop principals took it on. We work well together making good use of a variety of skills and access initially to the UK supermarkets.
What has brought you to these sub-regions in particular?
On that visit I was stunned by the extent of plantings. In all those thousands of acres there remains a heartland. The vineyards that underpin the success of Marlborough and territory I know well from my days with the old gig.
What individual characteristics best describe the Wairau, the Waihopai and the Awatere?
They share one thing in common. At the foot of these valleys is an alluvial fan, a gentle slope of fine gravels accumulated in times of heavy rainfall. Ideal Sauvignon Blanc country.
You are also teaming up with Rupert Clevely on this project - why do you want to work with him?
Marlborough Heartland has brought David Hohnen back in partnership with Rupert Cleverly
Rupert and I go back a long way. When Cloudy Bay was introduced to the UK market, he rode shotgun on a visit to London to front the UK wine press.
What is it about your relationship that works so well?
I’m a winemaker and a wuss. Roo is a canny and hard-nosed commercial bloke. We are a good team.
What wines do you hope to make from these three areas?
The principals at the Coop and their farmers have made that decision. The initial focus is Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.
Marlborough is mostly categorised or mentioned as one big region - how well appreciated do you think the idea of sense of place is being understood and investigated in the region?
I will confine my observations to the UK consumer. In the UK, wine is a grocery item. Most supermarket shoppers would not consider themselves as wine aware geeks. They have a favourite variety or two and they buy familiar brands. Don’t challenge them. Sub regions within Marlborough is for the geeks.
Do you think Marlborough and New Zealand as a whole has to do more to really dig into its sense of place and identify more of the terroirs to make more bespoke wine?
David Hohnen wanted to make a wine from the "heartland" of Marlborough
The brands that have taken the high ground, the ones that you will not find in a supermarket. They are on restaurant lists and in independent high street retailers. They tell the story of terroir diversity and sub regions. And you’ve got Sam Neill for free.
What would you like to see more of in terms of the wines being made?
Perhaps not more. Try less and better. The vine country has blown out into questionable territory. I’m an Aussie and I don’t consider myself qualified to comment on or be quoted on a controversial subject.
What has brought you back to wine and the inspiration to develop a new wine project of this scale?
David Hohnen says it has been great to work with hard working, passionate growers who are all united in helping to make the best wine they can for the market
I built intellectual capital in Marlborough and then turned my back on it. I never look back with regret, I do look back to learn. So I came back and it has been a powerful emotional homecoming.
What do you hope it can achieve?
What can WE achieve. A humdinger Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc in a supermarket and thus not exclusive. A chance for any Pom to get a taste of the best.
* You can find out more about Marlborough Heartland at its website here.
