The 2025 Austrian Wine tasting in London, featuring 100 producers, returns to the top floor of the Science Museum – a venue that not only offers stunning views but also the perfect blank canvas of white walls for professional tasting.
The Austrian Wine event returned to London's Science Museum
As anticipated, Grüner Veltliner takes centre stage. Representing 32.4% of Austria’s plantings, it is the country’s flagship variety, far surpassing Riesling (4.6%) and Chardonnay (4.3%). Versatile and expressive, Grüner is showcased in a variety of styles, from sparkling to low-intervention wines, and is steadily gaining ground in the UK on-trade.
Jascots’ business development manager, Ed McGreavy
Jascots’ business development manager, Ed McGreavy, has witnessed this shift first hand. “My clients are now specifically asking for Grüner Veltliner,” he says. “I’ve recently secured listings in a gastropub, an Indian restaurant, and a French bistro, which shows just how widely it appeals.”
He attributes the wine's growing popularity to its balance of distinctiveness, food-friendliness, and approachable price points – factors that make it an easy sell across various dining establishments.
Following the success of Grüner Veltliner, attention is now shifting to Austria’s red wines. While Blaufränkisch is the most internationally recognised, it was Zweigelt – and, to some extent, St Laurent – that stole the spotlight during two masterclasses led by Neumann and Junior.
Leona De Pasquale with Stefan Neumann MS
Despite Blaufränkisch’s fame, Zweigelt is Austria’s most planted black grape variety, covering 13.6% of the country’s vineyards, compared to Blaufränkisch at 5.8%. Pinot Noir and St Laurent each occupy a modest 1.3%.
After the Niederösterreich masterclass, Neumann shared his thoughts on Austria’s wealth of indigenous black varieties, emphasising their potential to offer a unique point of difference on UK wine lists.
“I would love to see more Austrian reds on menus,” he said, “especially the three key grapes: Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch, and St Laurent.”
Three Austrian black grape varieties in a nutshell
For Neumann, each of these varieties offers something unique
Blaufränkisch, a cross between Sbulzina and Weißer Heunisch, is primarily found in Burgenland and eastern Niederösterreich. Highly sensitive to its growing conditions, it typically displays wild berry and cherry notes, with high acidity and a firm tannin structure. Some examples also show excellent ageing potential.
St Laurent (or Sankt Laurent), part of the Pinot family, is named after St. Lawrence’s Day (August 10th), the time when the grapes begin to change colour. It is primarily cultivated in the Thermenregion and northern Burgenland. Though challenging to grow – requiring deep-rooting soils and being vulnerable to late frosts – St Laurent can produce dark, dense red wines with morello cherry notes and good ageing potential.
Zweigelt, a 1922 cross between Blaufränkisch and Sankt Laurent, thrives in Carnuntum and around Lake Neusiedl. While adaptable to various soils, it demands extensive pruning and yield management due to its high fertility. The variety yields purplish-red wines with strong tannins and aromas of red fruits. Fully ripe grapes result in full-bodied wines with good ageing potential. When harvested early, Zweigelt can produce a lighter, fruit-driven red wine.
For Neumann, each of these varieties offers something unique, and he skilfully draws comparisons to familiar wines, making it easier for consumers to connect. He sees St Laurent, from the Pinot family, as a natural choice for Pinot Noir lovers, while Blaufränkisch serves as a compelling alternative to Nebbiolo or Sangiovese. For fans of Gamay or Cabernet Franc, Zweigelt is the perfect match.
Dirceu Vianna Junior MW championing Zweigelt during his Neusiedlersee masterclass.
Junior shares this view, particularly championing Zweigelt during his Neusiedlersee masterclass, where five of the nine wines he presented were from this variety. He highlights its long picking window, which allows for a range of styles. Early-harvested Zweigelt, especially, offers lighter, more vibrant wines similar to Gamay from Fleurie – these light reds are undeniably trendy right now.
When it comes to the UK on- and off-trade, however, price remains a key factor. Asked if Austrian wines offer a price advantage, Neumann’s answer is clear: “Absolutely, without a doubt!”
He explains, “Austrian wines offer exceptional value – not just in varieties like Pinot Noir, where Burgundy often dictates the price, but across the board. Austrian Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and site-specific wines can rival premium bottles from other regions at a fraction of the cost. For those seeking value, Austria truly excels, especially at the entry level. But the real hidden gem lies in the top-tier, site-specific wines, which remain remarkably affordable on the global stage.”
My top 11 wines made from Austrian black grape varieties
Sparkling Rosé
Bründlmayer, Brut Rosé NV, Sekt Austria Reserve (33% Pinot Noir, 33% Zweigelt, St Laurent)
Bründlmayer, a pioneer of Kamptal sparkling wine, delivers finesse and elegance in this delicate brut rosé. Pale salmon in colour, its fine mousse lifts notes of ripe strawberries, cream, and a hint of biscuit. A luxurious, creamy texture meets vibrant acidity—effortlessly sophisticated. (UK Importer: Bancroft)
Jurtschitsch, Sekt Austria Brut Rosé NV, Niederösterreich (70% Zweigelt, Pinot Noir, St Laurent)
A charming rosé Sekt, elegant and expressive, with a lively fizz and a fine balance of red berry fruit, crisp acidity, and subtle autolytic complexity. (UK Importer: Newcomer Wines)
Still Rosé
Tinhof, Rosé Blaufränkisch 2023, Burgenland (Blaufränkisch)
A lively, thirst-quenching rosé with bright strawberry and cherry notes. Simple yet invigorating, perfect for warm afternoons. (UK Importer: Haynes Hanson & Clark)
Weingut Stift Göttweig, Messwein Rosé 2024, Niederösterreich (Zweigelt, Pinot Noir)
A fantastic value rosé bursting with charm. Pale pink in colour, its aromas are alive with fresh strawberries and morello cherries. Crisp, refreshing, and delightfully easy to drink. (UK Importer: Jascots)
Lex Langmann, Schilcher* Ried Hochgrail, 2023 Weststeiermark DAC (Blauer Wildbacher)
From a steep, 550m vineyard on gneiss soils, this Schilcher is marked by a savoury, almost spicy capsicum note, intertwined with bright cherry and strawberry fruit. A striking, characterful expression of the style. (UK Importer: Alpine Wines)
* Schilcher (A protected term in Steiermark for rosé, Schilcher is made exclusively from Blauer Wildbacher, grown on gneiss and slate soils in Weststeiermark.)
Red Wines
Birgit Braunstein, Blaufränkisch “Braunstein Brothers” 2021, Weinland (Blaufränkisch)
Two of Birgit’s wines are available from The Wine Society, but this is a special project by her sons, hence "Braunstein Brothers." While Birgit’s wines are known for their elegance and precision, this amphora-aged Blaufränkisch is bold yet vibrant, packed with dark cherry fruit and a subtle earthy undertone.
Kiss, St Laurent Ried Trift 2017, Burgenland Reserve (St Laurent)
A wonderfully spicy and juicy St Laurent, filled with dark fruit and a touch of earthiness. Complex and characterful. (UK Importer: Alpine Wines)
Allacher Vinum Pannonia, Cuvée Ried Golser Altenberg, 2021, Burgenland Reserve (St Laurent, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot)
A bold and opulent take on this St Laurent blend. Full-bodied with dark, brooding fruit, it exudes richness and warmth. A long, intense finish makes it a serious, expressive wine with plenty of depth. (UK Importer: Good Wine x Good People)
Pöckl, Cuvée “Admiral” 2022, Burgenland (Zweigelt, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc)
A powerhouse of a wine, structured and built for longevity. The different grape varieties, planted side by side, yield a deeply concentrated, inky purple cuvée with low yields and exceptional texture. Dark fruit, spice, and a commanding presence, this is a wine with serious ageing potential. (UK Importer: Gardabani)
Arnold Holzer, the 5th generation of Eschenhof Holzer, makes some stunning low-intervention wines.
Eschenhof Holzer, Zweigelt “Simply Red” 2021, Weinland (Zweigelt)
From the fifth-generation organic producer Arnold Holzer, this low-intervention Zweigelt is as pure as they come – unfined, unfiltered, and with no added SO₂. Serve lightly chilled, it reveals a juicy medley of fresh strawberries and wild berries. Vibrant and joyful! (UK Importer: Graft Wine)
Artisan Wines, Zweigelt “Nosey Crow” 2024, Weinland (Zweigelt)
A featherlight, Beaujolais-style Zweigelt brimming with charm. Pale ruby in colour, it bursts with pure red strawberry and cherry notes, edged with a candied sweetness. With 50% whole-bunch fermentation, it delivers a juicy, exuberant style with low extraction and a refreshing acidity. (UK Importer: Stone, Vine & Sun)
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