There was a decidedly confident vibe at the latest edition of the VIN trade tasting as beret-clad French producers and hosts mingled with visitors weaving their way on wine walks; as award-winners proudly clutched plaques; as curious tasters sipped their way around France.
Good vibes all round: Yvette Lupin and Domaine Saint Martin © Mike Hopkins
VIN is organised by Business France, the trade section of the French Embassy in the UK, and if ever there was an opportunity to experience the whole of a country in a glass (or several) then this was it.
Over 300 UK wine professionals had signed up to meet the 40 producers and importers and taste over 400 French wines, from Jura to Corsica to Burgundy to Alsace and all geographical points in between.
The day at the Hyatt Regency in London began with a “thank-you” to supporters of French wine, and the announcement of the French Champion Awards.
A panel of over 50 British trade professionals had nominated and voted for members of the UK wine trade, selecting three finalists in each of six categories.
This year's awards were presented by a champion from last year - Aleesha Hansel © Mike Hopkins
Aleesha Hansel, who won the Best Voice for France award at last year’s event, was joined by Hélène Duchêne, French Ambassador to the UK, and Pauline Gauthier, Head of Food & Drink at Business France UK & Ireland, to present the awards. And the applause went to:
• Best importer for France: Daniel Lambert Wines claimed the award for the second time in a row. Shortlisted - Les Caves des Pyrene, Guy Anderson Wines.
• Best supermarket for France: Waitrose was recognised for the diversity of the French wines in its range. Shortlisted - Marks & Spencer, Partridges
• Best indie retailer for France: Authentique is a Kent-based retailer focused on providing their local community with French craft products. Shortlisted - The Good Wine Shop, Lea & Sandeman
• Best online retailer for France: The Wine Society was recognised for offering one of the UK’s largest selections of French wines. Shortlisted - Good Pair Days, Wine at Home
• Best voice for France: Natalie Earl’s writing for Decanter brings the country’s diverse wine regions to life. Shortlisted - Tom Gilbey, Heather Dougherty
• Best restaurant for France: Noble Rot, widely known for its remarkable wine selection. Shortlisted - Bouchon Racine, Maison François.
Daniel Lambert was awarded Best Importer for French wine
After the presentation, Pauline Gauthier explained the ethos of the awards.
She told me: “We can make the best wines in the world, but if we don't have support on the market, nothing’s going to happen.
“And that's why for us, organising the French Champion Awards - which celebrates the trade who are putting those wines in front of the consumers - is key.
“That’s a way for us to show our recognition for the really hard and amazing work that they do all year long, over the years, to champion the French offer.”
Pauline Gauthier (r) along with Hélène Duchêne, French Ambassador to the UK © Mike Hopkins
Wine walks with McHale
One of the highlights of the event, and a crowd-magnet, was a series of wine walks presented by Master of Wine Anne McHale.
There were three walks: One on a sparkling theme, another on rosé wines, the other on sustainability.
Anne said: “The goal of the wine walks is really twofold. First of all, some of the trade visitors who come along perhaps feel a little overwhelmed by the number of wines available, and they don't really know where to start.
“The idea is that I've pre-planned the wines. They just follow me!
“I think what people enjoyed the most was that they were able to compare different styles within the same genre directly against each other, from table to table.
“So with rosé for example, you really did see the breadth of styles that is available across France, and they see them in a tranche, walking around the tables with me.
“It has been a very interesting process for people to see this direct comparison between styles.”
The producers, explains Anne, also know that they will be seen at least once by one of the walking groups “so they feel that their investment was worthwhile”.
In conclusion
So Pauline - did the day go well?!
As the day drew to a close, I asked Pauline Gauthier to reflect.
She said: “We wanted the event to be an amazing representation of what France has to offer for the wine category.
“We wanted to put those amazing wines and producers in front of the key UK decision makers, and I think that’s what’s happening.
“We’ve got a wonderful mix of producers who are already represented on the UK market; newcomers, big cooperatives, small family producers, well-known flagship regions, but also appellations which are completely off the well-trod track.
“We know that the UK is always looking for these different profiles of producers and wines.
“So we're really happy to have had that comprehensive French offer to put in front of them.
“Being French is not enough, and we don't take that for granted, so we try and get better.”
The UK consumer, she says, is always curious and always keen to discover new products; and the UK consumer is also looking for a story and experience and not just a product.
“This is where France really can make a difference for me, because we have those amazing producers who have amazing stories.
“We have people who are passionate, we have more and more female winemakers, we have strong sustainability stories.
“I personally think that is amazing.That's what brings so much life to our products.
“We must manage to tell that story and to get that story across, and this is where we need the trade to work with us.”
I’m sure Pauline Gauthier and the team will have no difficulties on that score.
A snapshot of wines:
This writer has visited her fair share of trade events, and there was a definite buzz and hive of activity in this room.
I wandered with wine walkers; I chatted to - by chance - producers I’d met on previous visits to France; and of course weaved my way around an eclectic mix of French wines to discover their stories.
Bestheim Grand Prestige Crémant d'Alsace Brut 2019
Table Two, I was just in the door, and I found this lovely sip made from 100% pinot blanc. The same vintage from this winemaking cooperative was named Sparkling Wine of the Year in Finland. With four years on the lees, it has biscuity complexity, a lick of limestone, crushed and stewed apples and peach.
Domaine Daridan Cour Cheverny Vieilles Vignes Blanc 2023
Well, wine tastings are about discoveries, and this was a new one for me: The white variety romorantin. It’s a grape that has completely passed me by. Domaine Daridan has been in the Loire since 1740, and they tease a couple of wines out of romorantin which can now only be found in the AOC Cour Cheverny. The wine is on the riper side of pear, with some honey, floral notes and fleshy green apple.
Orenga de Gaffory Muscat du Cap Corse Impassitu
Many fingers of recommendation were pointing to Corsica and the family estate of Domaine Orenga de Gaffory and so I went where I was told. Along with a brace of reds (grenache and nielluciu) and whites (vermentino) the domaine was wowing a steady stream of table visitors with this lush, ripe, orange-laden, citrussy fresh, honeyed, floral-scented, candied, Vin Doux Naturel wine from 100% Muscat à Petits Grains.
Calmel & Joseph Ams Tram Gram Le Roi Cinsault
I’m always a bit of a pushover when it comes to a light red, and some say that’s no easy task where I’m concerned. This Languedoc red was nimble and light on its toes with its contribution of red fruit to this world; while being delicately yet confidently and ably spiced.
Chateau Famaey Prestige Malbec Cahors
In full transparency, this wine and the cinsault were both on Daniel Lambert’s table where I lingered a little longer than I ought. Mainly because I couldn’t stop taking in the aromas of this Cahors. I’m not a big fan of malbec; I say that all the time yet I keep finding ones I like. This one stopped me in my tracks with lifted violets, eucalyptus, black pepper, and juicy dark, dark plums.
Merci! Domaine Saint Martin
There are, as Pauline Gauthier says, many producers with stories to tell. Domaine Saint Martin’s Merci! wine is from the IGP de Carcassonne. It is chunked with brooding marselan’s oaked black fruit. It is called Merci! because a few years ago winemaker Henri Cases had an accident and family and friends stepped in to help the harvest and the vintage. Now it remains as a thank-you.
Château Fortia Edmee le Roy 2023
A white Châteauneuf du Pape always feels a little naughty but nice. Roussanne, clairette and grenache blanc are the grape compatriots here, crafted into this wine by Château Fortia, one of the oldest wine making estates in the appellation. It speaks of quince and passion fruit, with a fresh, lightness of touch. It won a gold medal at Terre de vins 2024 and 91 Robert Parker points.
Vin Jaune 2017 André Bonnot
Yeast is the key to a Vin Jaune; and here in the André Bonnot domain the savagnin wine is transformed by aging in a barrel for at least 60 months, protected from the air by a layer of yeast. It’s an eyebrow-raising, workout of the senses; a “what else can I smell wine”. And that included quince, nuts, lemon, wet dough and a hush of fenugreek sneaking in from somewhere.
Producers represented regions from Alsace, Loire Valley, Bourgogne, Jura, the Rhône Valley, Provence, Corsica, Languedoc, the South West, and Bordeaux. Importers were Daniel Lambert Wines, Wine Story, Charles Taylor Wines and Les Producteurs et Vignerons de France Ltd.
