It is one of those events where you think “I wish that I’d been on that invitation list” then you come to and realise “I was”!
As I write up my notes I am still pinching myself because it isn’t often that you get to lunch with Jean Baptiste Lecaillon, chef de cave of Louis Roederer, big boss (CEO) Frederic Rouzard, and an historic line-up of Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé in magnum to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Cristal Rosé… and when you do you know you’ve sat at an unique table.
This 50th anniversary celebration was held in the 20-seat Mauro’s Table, Raffles Hotel at The OWO, which was a perfect setting, with the wine service guided by wine director, Vincenzo Arnese, who has that balance and poise of authority, knowledge and open Napoli friendship to put you at ease.
Jean Baptiste Lecaillon balances science and art in harmony, guiding you through the nitty gritty technical basics and ensuring that, above all, Louis Roederer is about the ‘final canvas’, producing that masterpiece, the perfect wine.
Can there be a more visionary chef de cave than Jean Baptiste? He willingly explains his vision, whether it is through graphs or helping you with your personal notes, is so open and friendly and has that great skill of knowing everyone by name.
Lecaillon highlighted ‘human interaction’ and how important Roederer ‘people’ are – this team is the centre of everything they want to build on. For him terroir is important but the human touch is far greater.
Lecaillon explained that Cristal Rosé up to 10 years of age shows a pure freshness that then evolves into a secondary, deeper, more intense style after a decade. The balance of time on lees and age in bottle is important to allow the wines to relax and evolve, he says. With earlier ‘great vintages’ this may have been more by chance than planning.
Lecaillon added that Roederer does not search for acidity as some Houses do, as there is more perfect freshness achieved from the salinity of champagne, and this is the key to the way Roederer produces its wines.
Highlighting his vision is the 2002 Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé Vinotheque, which is a late disgorged wine, gently racked in bottle four times a year to ensure that the small amount of air in the bottle is perfectly evolved which keeps the wine fresh with no chance of any oxidisation, presenting a sleek, pure, fresh and vibrant wine that is a shining beacon.
The exceptional food matching at Mauro’s Table is part of Mauro’s Colagreco’s culinary empire, an Argentinian chef who established himself at the 3 Michelin Star Mirazur restaurant in Minton, near Monaco. The balance and restraint was a point, delivering perfection, a marvel in food and wine matching – everything in harmony with these unique Rosé champagnes.
First course
Radish; Langoustine Tartare, Caviar and Sake Kasu Dressing
Delightfully bright, clean, fresh Scottish langoustines, balanced with nutty, raw radish, saline caviar and savoury katsu dressing
Louis Roederer Cristal 2013 Magnum
Precise, pristine, pure, this evolves beautifully on the palate with hints of salinity, chalk; fresh and vibrant, class.
Louis Roederer Cristal 2012 Magnum
Riper, rounder, still fresh and vibrant, the Pinot notes at the fore, a hint of perfectly smoked wild salmon aroma that evolves on the palate, opens up with stunning purity, grows in depth and freshness in the glass
Second course
Truffle; Grilled Orkney Scallop, Bread Sauce
A profound dish. Perfectly seared diver caught scallop, shaved truffles and a bread sauce infused with fresh truffles that confused one with the lightness of touch, capped with a ginger-spiced tulle.
Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 2008 Magnum
Wow! What a show stopper – perfection! Lecaillon called this the “new style of Cristal Rosé, maybe the best we have made.” The balance, the purity, that saline-fresh brightness balanced with a creamy, chalky, delicate berry, so precise … heaven!
Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 1995 Magnum
This had more intensity, but still that classic purity of Cristal – fresh and vibrant, focused, but with depth, a beautiful texture and length. Still fresh on the finish this was a glorious delight, and pretty perfect with the scallop and truffle dish.
Third course
Jerusalem Artichoke; Grilled Monkfish, Button Mushrooms
Very clever dish where the chef had sculptured the artichoke skin to look like fish scales, the earthy notes perfectly balancing these two aged Cristal wines.
Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 1989 Magnum
Layered and complex, but still oozing saline freshness, the aromatic perfumed nose was sensual; as it evolved it got fresher and gained vibrancy, pairing well with the monkfish.
Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé 1976 Magnum
On first nose and taste it showed an age and similarity to white Gran Reserva Rioja, but as the wine evolved with air it opened up and moved away from toasty lime marmalade to a fresh, focused, spiced vibrant wine that glowed with impeccable balance and focus – an outstanding exceptional experience.
Fourth course
Honey; Pollen and Propolis
Louis Roederer Cristal Rosé Vinotheque 2002 Magnum
Fresh focused, late disgorged but riddled four times a year to keep it balanced, this is a new innovation, the focus here being on freshness, salinity and purity, and my word they have achieved something very special here, pure class.
How Roger captured that magical moment on Instagram
