Benoît Gouez describes his work post-disgorging akin to running a trauma recovery ward in a hospital where, after the ‘trauma’ of disgorgement (including oxidation trauma), the wine needs time to recover. Recovery time is based on the time the wines have been on lees so a Moët non-vintage can be discharged after three months, a vintage after six months and Moët Grand Vintage Collection after a year of careful care by his ‘life support team’ is allowed to be discharged to then enrich the lives of others.
This insight, together with a discussion on the benefits (and negativity) of the traditional cork, was all part of the conversation when I met up with Benoît Gouez over a breakfast meeting in the towering City Social private dining suite.
This tasting was to highlight the launch of the Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage 2016 and Benoît noted that the ‘classic unpredictable’ nature of the season meant that quality was the winner over quantity, the hard work being done in the blending and cellaring of the wines. It is testament to Benoît’s interpretation, resilience and ability to be able to produce such class champagne similar to the turbulent harvests of 2009 and 2000. In his words it is the story of serenity after the storm. He stated that all three vintages had the “same parents” with “common genetics” but were different ages and living different lives.
"2016 mirrors the traditional champagne phenomenon, where uncertainty and challenges are transformed into champagnes of harmonious beauty, showcasing our capacity to remain resilient and create made-to-measure interpretations of a year,” says Gouez.
Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage is assembled from the three traditional grapes, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier all from the same harvest year. Moët has the ability to source from nearly 90% of the Champagne region, and pay the vignerons on grape weight prior to pressing.
Sur latte and sur pointe
Benoît explained the importance of sur latte, allowing the freedom of the lees to mix ad lib, whilst the bottle lies flat for up to six years for the Grand Vintage, before moving the bottles to sur pointe (allowing the lees to settle in the neck) to help protect from oxidisation when disgorging.
How were the wines tasting?
Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage 2016 RRP £62
48% Chardonnay, 34% Pinot Noir, 18% Pinot Meunier
Fresh beady, yeasty nose than evolves with peaches and apricots delicately evolving on the palate, hints of ginger and nutty notes, pretty seamless and pure, the lingering finish has essence of quince and that perfect orange blossom preserve, the finish is seamless and balanced.
Jones’ suggested food match: Ceviche of Sicilian Shrimps with a Lime and Lemon Grass Confit
Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage 2016 Rose RRP £77
43% Pinot Noir (of which 13% macerated Pinot Noir Red Wine), 42% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Meunier
Wow the energy and purity in this is quite superb! Red berries, autumn Scottish raspberries and redcurrants wake up the palate – balanced with savoury, cocoa and ginger notes, violets and hibiscus with a hint of vanilla and flint, and a mere sniffle of truffle. A serious Rosé that shouts out for quality food.
Jones’ suggested food match: Roasted Monkfish Cutlet, White Truffles, Cep Cream
The Grand Vintage Collection
These Collection wines have a minimum of 14 years in the cellar and are kept in cork seal from the start, whilst on lees, never crown caps. Benoît believes that this extended time on the cork is better for long term maturation, giving a much more profound texture and flavour. Whilst some corks have well known negative molecules, there are positive molecules, and it is about finding these and allowing these to enrich the wine.
Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Collection 2009 RRP £211
50% Pinot Noir, 36% Chardonnay, 14% Pinot Meunier
Rich and elegant on the nose, earthy and evocative, flinty, even smoky; the mid-palate is freshened by peach nectar, BBQ pineapple, glazed chestnuts with honey, glaze red cherries, cake notes, a mesmerising mouthful of delectable vintage champagne.
Jones’ suggested food match: Tempura Native British Lobster with Chinese Spices
Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Collection 2000 RRP £326
50% Chardonnay, 34% Pinot Noir, 16% Pinot Meunier
This has been in the Moët cellars for 24 years. 2000 was another difficult growing season after a mild, wet winter, damp Spring, a cool rainy summer with frequent hailstorms then an extended period of great August weather leading to an early September harvest. Chardonnay was excellent and in abundance this harvest, allowing for selective picking.
Radiant, opulent and charming, as the wine opens up and the toasty notes evolve, there is a superb depth with exotic tea, nutty, spice, fig and preserved apricot feel. The depth and character is stunning, I love the vibrancy and purity of this wine, this is a savoury style that combines juicy ‘Antibes market’ stone fruit with nutty complexity and richness of honey and aromatic spices; an opulent wine.
Jones’ suggested food match: Squid Ink Macaroon, Caviar Salt, Fresh Torbay White Crab
In conclusion
A meeting with Benoît Gouez is always an education, never scared to give away his trademarks, always full of energy and a great ambassador for champagne. The Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage 2016 I believe offers exceptional value for money priced not far above some Non Vintage Champagnes. These are wines to be enjoyed with food and company.
