“This is with the huge caveat that my list is based on my opinion. People are free to disagree,” says Atkin about his Ribera Del Duero Top 100.
The seventh time that Tim Atkin MW has produced a Ribera Del Duero Top 100
Ribera Del Duero’s Top 100 tasting really has become a highlight of the press tasting calendar. The standard of the wines is worth the train ticket alone, but alongside the Top 100 that were all (well…nearly all) on show, are tables of ‘Ribera Del Duero on a Budget’ for those feeling priced out by some of the fine wines in the Top 100, as well as a new table for ‘Unrepresented Ribera Del Duero’ for those importers with a gaping Ribera-shaped hole in their portfolios. The latter two are masterstrokes of marketing director Pablo Baquera Peironcely and can often provide as much fun as the room of celebrated wines on the other side of the door.
As much as I was there for tasting these wines, and picking out my favourites from each table, there’s something much more interesting happening in the context of the Top 100 and the Annual Report published by Tim Atkin MW. The tasting happened on the 14th November 2023, the day after Atkin published both list and report. Neither his nor Banquera’s phone stopped calling/vibrating/pinging pretty much all day.
It’s quite clear that this has become much more than simply a useful guide on the region, and is eagerly anticipated by scores of interested producers, journalists, commentators, and buyers the world over. I took the opportunity of having access to both Atkin and Baquera to discuss how it all started and the impact it’s having on the region as a whole.
Building the foundations
“I think the brand of Ribera Del Duero is now strong enough to allow producers to plant what they want under the name,” Tim Atkin MW.
I’ve been very lucky to have been more and more involved with Ribera Del Duero over recent months and years. Having visited the region with Baquera and his team, I’ve also hosted online and in person trade tastings to promote the producers and unique terroir of this intensely continental region just a couple of hours drive north of Madrid. I’ve also written a handful of articles on The Buyer celebrating the nuance and quality on offer.
Throughout this learning curve, I’m very happy to admit that Atkin’s reports have been a go-to reference for me. But what about for Atkin? How difficult was it to come up with such a comprehensive release on a region that is, especially in ‘Old World’ mentality, one of the newer fine wine regions around.
“It’s the seventh time I’ve done the Top 100, and the third year I’ve released the full report,” stated Atkin. “The main concern since starting was, of course, that I’m doing a good job and I have a full enough understanding of the region to put my reputation out there for all to judge.”
So what the most surprising aspect of Atkin’s journey?
“Understanding the place was a lot more involved that many would have thought,” he remembered, “We know now that it’s not just ‘Ribera Del Duero’. The sub-regions are so important, the wines are not the same, and the complexity is there to rival the likes of Burgundy. To try and get to grips with it quickly was a challenge, but one I’m increasingly confident I’ve made a good go of, and that this is truly reflective of my palate and my opinions, for good or ill.”
Dynamic producers keeping reports fresh
Ribera Del Duero Top 100 tasting, London, November 14, 2023
Which wineries have particularly impressed him in recent years?
“There are always new producers entering their wines and it adds a lot of fun to the process of picking the Top 100,” reflected Atkin. “This year, for example, I gave my first 95-point score to a fabulous clarete style rosé from Bodegas Territorio Luthier in Aranda de Duero. The whites too are seeing more representation in the Top 100 or the ‘On a Budget’ list as the quality improves year on year.”
With regards the producers, Atkin’s report also includes a ‘Classified Growth’ list, ranking the wineries in a mirror of the 1855 Grand Cru Classification of Bordeaux’s Left Bank. Seen by many, including myself, as putting the fast-moving region in context for fine wine importers and buyers, I wanted to know about the reaction he’d had from the producers themselves.
“I guess that all depends on where they’ve been placed in my rankings,” joked Atkin. “In all seriousness, it’s my attempt to impose a bit of order on chaos, with placings based on both track record and the given vintage I’m writing about.”
It’s not just the winemakers that have their say on the rankings. Many journalists and commentators in Spain have had plenty to say, both good and bad. “People in the wine trade in Spain, of course, have an opinion all of their own,” mused Atkin. “I would argue that some of those opinions are out of date, but this is with the huge caveat that my list is based on my opinion. People are free to disagree.”
In compiling the list and report, Atkin spent two weeks in the region in September visiting 60 bodegas and tasting wines from over 130 more. But how does the itinerary for the trip get chosen?
“We split it between three afternoons at the Consejo building interspersed with winery visits,” revealed Atkin. “With the winery visits we tend to go for what I would consider the top producers that I rank in the first, second or third growths, in order to stay fresh with what’s going on there. In addition, we look back at last year’s judging and pick a few producers who are up and coming and I’ve not been to see before. For example, this time I made it to Feliz Compañía Vinos, whose excellent Albillo Mayor white made it into the top 100 with 94 points.”
Impact of the report on the region
Pablo Baquera Peironcely outside the Consejo Regulador Ribera Del Duero, November 2019
Pablo Baquera Peironcely is marketing director at the Consejo Regulador Ribera Del Duero. He has seen, first-hand, the impact that the production of the Top 100 and the Annual Report has had on the winemakers in the region.
“All the producers are now eagerly anticipating the release,” revealed Baquera. The London tasting was scheduled for the day after Atkin published the 2023 report, and Baquera’s phone was in constant action all day. “I’ve even just had a call from my boss this morning asking when we can start using the report in our releases across the globe.”
Baquera has been in his role for six years and is perfectly placed to comment on the evolution of how the Top 100 and Annual Report have grown in stature for the region.
“It’s a mark of how much the producers understand the importance of the Top 100 in our marketing strategy that 98 of the 100 wines in the Top 100 were happy to send samples for press tastings,” pointed out Baquera. “That was not the case just a few short years ago.” I think we all forgave Dominio de Pingus for the empty space next to the name place for their €1000 per bottle, 98-point release.
What’s changed in 2023
“Climate change is happening right before our eyes.”
For those of us who have keenly thumbed-though versions of the 2021 and 2022 reports, I asked about the big themes or updates from 2023.
“It’s hard to get away from climate change. It really is happening in front of our eyes,” noted Atkin. “The region is very reliant on Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) and as an early ripening variety it’s not an easy one in the hot years we’ve had of late. Styles will change, but the best growers and producers are still producing excellent wines.”
In his reports, Atkin has a top ten ‘need to know’ section about the region and has long supported an increase in allowed varietals for DO wines.
“One of my arguments in the full report is that the region can open its doors to more grape varieties,” maintained Atkin. “I think the brand of Ribera Del Duero is now strong enough to allow producers to plant what they want under the name. What’s wrong with experimenting with the likes of Garnacha or Bobal? If it sells, then great! The rules already allow up to 25% white varieties in the blends to help with freshness, so the thought process has started already.”
Atkin was keen to stress that the Report is very much his own, albeit well-informed, view. But did Baquera have anything to add that maybe Atkin has maybe missed?
“No, not really. Tim did mention this particular point, but I always want to stress the dynamism amongst the winemakers in the region,” urged Baquera. “We have a lot of younger winemakers, with great plans and energy, making their mark and developing their own projects. The likes of Marta (Ramas) and Miguel (Fisac) at Valdaya, Jaime (Suarez) at Dominio de Atauta, and the Callejo family, are all bringing new, increasingly terroir-driven styles, aiming for beautiful balance.”
My dozen top wines from the Top 100
Aalto 2021, Aalto Bodegas y Viñedos
I am a big fan of this producer, and love the exceptional freshness the Aalto achieves alongside the concentrated violet petal, plum, blackberry, liquorice, pepper and herbal notes. Those who enjoy more smoke and sweet spice can trade up to the Aalto PS, but this is my favourite of the two. Imported by Justerini & Brooks, €39 Spanish Retail Price, TA 94 points
Bohóhorquez Reserva 2018, Bodegas Bohórquez
In a sea of Cosechas, always nice to pick out a genuine old-school Reserva label for the punters. Lovely bright black and blue fruits, nutmeg and liquorice, and a faint hint of green pepper from the 10% Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. Imported by Ehrmanns Wine, €27 Spanish Retail Price, TA 95 points
Blanco de Guarda 2020, Bodegas Territorio Luthier
Blend of 75% Albillo Mayor, 20% Pirules and 5% Malvasia & Viura. Incredible complexity of smoke, cashew nut, herbal freshness, white pepper, green and stone fruit, gun flint minerality and lovely citrus lees bitterness in the finish. Not Currently Imported, €33 Spanish Retail Price, TA 97 points
Mirum de Valdaya 2021, Bodegas Valdaya
Winemaking super couple Marta Ramas and Miguel Fisac continue to make incredibly plush wines across their three labels from Valdaya. The Mirum is their top label and just bursts with red and blue fruits, fine grained texture, herbal freshness, subtle pepper and sweet spice, but still manages to be incredibly light. Imported by Bancroft, €79 Spanish Retail Price, TA 97 points
Valdegatiles 2018, Dominio de Atauta
From the fabulous Jaime Suárez, the Valdegatiles is my favourite from across the portfolio with rose perfume, plush red, blue and forest fruits, thyme herbal notes and a smooth, silky finish that feels like it goes on for days. Imported by Boutinot, €122 Spanish Retail Price, TA 95 points
Parcela El Nogal 2019, Pago de Los Capellanes
Gorgeous sweet and savoury aromas of black olives, thyme, liquorice, chocolate, and dark black berry fruit, the grippy tannins add so much to the texture and the finish which again has that lovely ability to be both fresh and warming at the same time. Imported by Enotria, €57 Spanish Retail Price, TA 96 points
Great wines from ‘On a Budget’ and ‘Unrepresented’
Parcela Cara Norte 2020, Montebaco
OK, granted that this is not officially in the ‘On a Budget’ list, this is from the Top 100, but at sub-€20 retail in Spain this remains the finest value for money wine in Ribera Del Duero. Building ripe blue and black fruit, sage herbal notes, touch of pepper and nutmeg spice, beautifully ripe and smooth tannic structure and fresh acidity. Organic certified, biodynamic methods, and all for THAT price. Wines on a Budget – Imported by Champagne & Chateaux, €19 Spanish Retail Price, TA 96 points
Cepa Gavilán 2021, Bodegas Pérez Pascuas
Violet petal, purple and black fruit, liquorice spice, really expressive on both nose and palate. Being picky the tannin is a touch drying, but overall a fabulous wine for the price. Wines on a Budget – Imported by Bancroft, €14 Spanish Retail Price, TA 92 points
Senda Del Oro 2022, Bodegas Vizcarra
Lovely subtle blackcurrants, liquorice and violet petal with spicy black pepper notes. Plenty of ripe and grippy tannin, but well-judged and balanced with enough acidity to carry both that and the 14.5% abv. Wines on a Budget – Not Represented, €10 Spanish Retail Price, TA 91 points
Dominio del Soto 2021, M. Chapoutier España
Beautiful vibrant purple tones, excellent bramble, plum, blueberries, violet, liquorice, smoke, great extraction levels. Organic certified and biodynamic methods. Think this one might do even better with time in the bottle. Wines on a Budget – Not Represented, €10 Spanish Retail Price, TA 92 points
Buen Camino Noroeste 2021, Pagos de Vallejo
Great juicy example of Tinto Fino, with a touch of Garnacha thrown in for good measure. Fruity, juicy, jammy, black and red fruits, ripe and medium extracted tannin and juicy finish. This ticks a lot of boxes at something that’ll work out about £10 retail in the UK. Wines on a Budget – Not Represented, €7 Spanish Retail Price, TA 91 points
Albillo Mayor 2022, Dominio Del Pidio
Still looking for representation in the UK, Dominio del Pidio is an impressive set up to visit in a series of historic caves in Quintana del Pidio. This 100% Albillo Mayor is layered with stone, tropical, citrus fruits, with lifting orange blossom notes, a waxy lees mouthfeel, grippy stone minerality and a perfectly long fruit and floral finish. Slight drawback is that the bottle shape means they wouldn’t fit in your rack. Can’t have it all, eh? Not Represented, €42 Spanish Retail Price, TA 93 points
To pick up your own copy of Tim Atkin MW’s Ribera Del Duero Special Report 2023, head over to https://timatkin.com/ to purchase online for just £20
For more information about the wines of Ribera Del Duero or the Top 100 Tasting Day, please contact Cathy Harrison at CUBE Communications on catherine@cubecom.co.uk
Mike Turner is a freelance writer, presenter, educator, judge and regular contributor for The Buyer through his editorial company Please Bring Me My Wine. He also runs a wine events and ecommerce business, Feel Good Grapes, that explores and discusses the idea of sustainability in the wine trade.
