The Buyer
Soave Tour Part 3: The stories that Soave needs to focus its efforts on

Soave Tour Part 3: The stories that Soave needs to focus its efforts on

In the third and last report from The Buyer’s Soave Restaurant Tour, in partnership with Soave Consortium, we talk to Joe Wadsack, Bradley Horne, Abbie Bennington and Erin Smith to get their take on what they see as Soave’s strengths and potential in the competitive premium on and off-trade markets in the UK and what are the key messages the region and its producers should be using to best tell their story.

You can read part one of the tour here.

You can read part two of the tour here.

All photography by Thomas Skovsende.

Richard Siddle
12th October 2024by Richard Siddle
posted in Debates,

Buyers' Perceptions

Joe Wadsack

What was your perception of Soave in terms of its diversity, versatility and quality of its wines before the tour?

I have always felt that more could be made of Soave. It is a uniquely gastronomic white that supports the foods it is served alongside, without over-powering them. You get what you pay for, but irrespective of the price you decide to pay, there is value to be had: from wine box level to £35 a bottle.

The Buyer

Joe Wadsack said he was impresssed by the depth and versatility of the different Soaves tasted on the tour

The Buyer

Did that change during and after the tour - and if so why?

I hadn’t noticed that there were two distinct styles so clearly before. Knowing where the vines are planted goes a long way to explaining why they taste the way that they do. It’s good to know that fine wines can still be made on the flatter more fertile soils, but the best wines appear to come from the volcanic hills in the main.

What do you see as Soave's big point of difference and what it should look to build on?
Soave and Garganega have a strong identity, so you at least know what type of wine you’re getting. This is much easier to promote generically than a small region making wines in dozens of different styles.

Does it need to do more to explain the differences in complexity and ageing and DOC vs DOCG?

I don’t think so. Everyone who needs to know, knows that buying DOCG is and upgrade from DOC, but there is almost and unwritten understanding and sub-text with Italian wines that DOCG also probably means, a little older and more conditioned, richer and more likely to contain some wood ageing. If I was after a vibrant, crisp Soave, then I would naturally look for the youngest one, which is likely to be DOC anyway.

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Corinna Gianesini was able to share her passion and knowledge of Soave wines with the group

The Buyer

Are you more likely to talk about Soave wines as a result of the tour?

I think so. It has certainly reminded me how attractive and versatile they are. I have actually bought Soave twice in restaurants since the restaurant tour.

What price points do you think work best for Soave in the premium on and off-trade?

This is a tricky question to answer. If it is listed in an Italian restaurant, then I would think nothing of spending £60 plus on a Soave to go with my crab linguine, but in a restaurant where there is more competition, I imagine the sweet spot would be somewhere nearer sub £50.

In the off-trade, there are clear levels, but above £15 and below £25 felt a very comfortable price point for most of these wines. Some surprised me with their value.

Which food and wine matches were particularly successful?

Any hint of smokiness worked well with the more serious Soaves. I loved the salmon tartare taco with the fresher Soave styles, and the polpo in Brindisa was delicious with the punchier, more serious examples. I also noticed a strong affinity with vegetarian food. The top line Soaves were great with the Asian aubergine dish.

What did you think of the restaurant tour concept?

It’s a very clever device, in my view. It refreshes the conversation each time we reset in a new restaurant, allowing people the chance to change their minds, seeing the wines in different contexts. I love also seeing wines pushed up against dishes that they would never normally encounter. Some real magic happens sometimes.

Bradley Horne, Wine Time London

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Bradley Horne said the quality at all levels was a real "eye opener" for him

What was your perception of Soave in terms of its diversity, versatility and quality of its wines before the tour?

I have always liked the wines from the region and that it produces such a diverse range of wines.

Did that change during and after the tour - and if so why?

The restaurant tour only made me realise that its versatility with food is also amazing, from all different styles. This really was an eye opener for me and I would love to see more Soave on general restaurant lists and not just in Italian restaurants.

What do you see as Soave's big point of difference and what it should look to build on?

Firstly quality at all levels matched by the price points being asked for these wines. They are very competitive. Soave also has styles of wine to suit all palettes and it has the versatility as mentioned before.

Does it need to do more to explain the differences in complexity and ageing and DOC vs DOCG?

I would love to see a campaign with educators and influencers to teach a broader selection of people ( particularly a younger wine drinker) and get across the message that Soave is able to make simple, easy to understand wines that are also very effective as well.

Are you more likely to talk about Soave wines as a result of the tour?

Absolutely and I already am both to consumers and the trade. I have been able to follow up with Silvia from Gaucho restaurants on the tour, at another event, about the food and wine pairings we enjoyed.

What price points do you think work best for Soave in the premium on and off-trade?
I would say £15 for the off-trade and £40 plus for the on-trade.

Which food and wine matches were particularly successful?

The Buyer

Bradley Horne particularly liked the food and wine pairings at Brindisa

The Buyer

The Mediterranean food we enjoyed at Brindisa worked so well.

What did you think of the restaurant tour concept?

It's a great way to talk honestly about a region across a cross selection of wines, food and people. It’s maybe the best sort of trade tasting and experience that allows you to do this.

Abbie Bennington, wine writer, ABV Tastings

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Abbie Bennington says Soave is "no longer a comfy sweater but a cashmere scarf ready for any pairing opportunity"

What was your perception of Soave in terms of its diversity, versatility and quality of its wines before the tour?

Soave is a wine that has been part of my early wine drinking knowledge and experience. Always there in the background like a comfy sweater, something always worth returning to. Perhaps in the last 12 months perception of the wine for me has changed. Once pigeonholed (wrongly) in my own mind as a cheaper easy drinking wine. Now I see the range of styles, quality and diversity has become more apparent when shopping for wine or dining out.

So much so, that I now regularly search out the different styles when buying or pairing wines for tasting events both personal and professional. This wine is no longer a comfy sweater but a cashmere scarf ready for any pairing opportunity.

Did that change during and after the tour - and if so why?

I knew that Soave was good often very good, but I didn’t realise the extent to the diversity of styles on the market and this came as a pleasant surprise. It has definitely left me thinking that it’s worth looking deeper into what these wines can offer consumer palates in a range of settings. I know now that the wine is more than an aperitif or antipasti wine but a serious contender for a range of food pairings outside the norm.

What do you see as Soave's big point of difference and what it should look to build on?

It has more stylistic range than given credit and also has consumer recognition by a certain demographic of mature consumers. Old perceptions can be updated with these new wine style offerings that are now more readily available on the market. I think it needs to challenge old staid perceptions of a high volume neutral wine, by showcasing its pairing potential alongside a range of dining styles.

Does it need to do more to explain the differences in complexity and ageing and DOC vs DOCG? If so how best can it do that?

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Abbie Bennington leads the way as the group leads Gaucho on the way to Brindisa

The Buyer

Yes, consumer and buyer education is key to any greater success of these wines in various markets. This can best be done through engagement with consumers in a range of tasting settings. Wine tastings, on-trade tastings, pop ups and dedicated education. I can see this wine doing well if showcased amongst my colleagues in the AWE (Association of Wine Educators).

Are you more likely to talk about more Soave wines as a result ot the tour?
Definitely more likely and have done so already with potential clients for tastings. Being able to offer old favourites with broader stylistic range will appeal to many Italian and broader wine lovers. I am thinking of suggesting as a special tasting event for fellow wine educators.

What price points do you think work best for Soave in the premium on and off-trade?
For the off-trade I think £15-20 works well to get consumers engaged and building on that with education, although you could push the budget up significantly in restaurants. On-trade I think there will need to be a level of somm guidance to push the price willing to be paid by a consumer who may have an older mindset about the wine style historically.

Which food and wine matches were particularly successful?
I enjoyed the octopus with the soave at Brindisa, an unusual match but one that really gelled for me. I also enjoyed the prawns at Gaucho. For me the Santi Colforte wine paired well with a range of dishes so was in my opinion ‘cuisine flexible’. I was surprised by the intensity and complexity of the aged Gini La Frosca 2020 which for me was one of the standout wines of the day at our final stop.

What did you think of the restaurant tour concept?

I think this is a great way to share insight, stories and perceptions with colleagues in the wine industry. Everyone learns from each other and helps put the wine style to test in a range of obvious and less obvious settings. In short yes, what’s next?

Erin Smith, ecommerce and business consultant and ex managing director of Slurp Wine

The Buyer
The Buyer

Erin Smith with Harry Crowther in the London sunshine

What was your perception of Soave in terms of its diversity, versatility and quality of its wines before the tour?

I already appreciated the quality of the wines that were being produced in Soave and I do think the region has done a great job in maintaining that. It still offers excellent value for money. What did surprise me was the versatility of the wine with non-Italian dishes. So often you see these wines only in Italian restaurants, but for other types of cuisines this a great step up in quality and complexity without putting patrons off in the process. I think this could be an excellent style of wine for a list at establishments or for at home occasions where a more complex wine is warranted but one that won’t break the bank. It is incredibly versatile.

Did that change during and after the tour - and if so why?

I was surprised at how it paired with both Spanish dishes and Asian flavours. The Salmon tacos, the tortilla Espano and the pork dumplings were all fantastic. It worked so well. I also think it contrasted nicely with the some of the spiciness in some of the dishes.

What do you see as Soave's big point of difference and what it should look to build on?

I think the ageing potential and the quality and value for money helps it stand out. I think it has done a great job at consistently delivering for consumers and give them a reason to trade up, but while still offering exceptional value for money compared to something like a Chablis for example.

The Buyer

There will be a bus along in a minute...

Does it need to do more to explain the differences in complexity and ageing and DOC vs DOCG?

For the complexity and ageing of the wine, I do think there is more to be done. You just don’t see some of the older vintages available in many place so it is not too surprising it may not be front of mind for customers. Most Italian whites are drunk when they are young. So holding back some of these vintages to really showcase how well they age and then getting them on lists is important. I just think access to some of these wines is important. If only a handful of producers hold back vintages then it may not be too big of surprise you don’t see them around. People don’t know they know what they could be missing then.

The Buyer

For the Doc and DOCG differences - this is always a challenge for several different regions in Italy. So perhaps this is already being done by Italy collectively already. And there is still work be done there - but in the case of Soave I think getting the aging message out is actually more important than the difference between DOC and DOCG - controversially. Both the DOC and DOCG subregions are making some really interesting older and complex wines, but again we just don’t seem them over here - yet!

What did you think of the restaurant tour concept?

I think it is a great way to get us all to think about wines differently and perhaps not necessarily in the way we normally would. Having Soave with non-Italian dishes was a really eye opener in demonstrating how versatile the wines really are. It also was really helpful having some experts from there region guiding us and setting the context. Being able to discuss different perspective with colleges as well helped me to think about the wines in different contexts and settings. It is very valuable.

* You can find out more about Soave and the region here.

* You can read the first report on the Soave restaurant tour here.

* You can read the second report here.

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