Every few years since 1932, the châteaux of the Médoc enter an exciting period marked by the release of the latest list of who's who in the wine world of Crus Bourgeois. Since 2020, the classification has been open to any property authorised to produce wine in one of the eight following AOCs: Médoc, Haut-Médoc, Listrac-Médoc, Moulis-en-Médoc, Margaux, Saint-Julien, Pauillac, and Saint-Estèphe.
The classification is divided into three categories: Cru Bourgeois, Cru Bourgeois Supérieur, and Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel. These families are united in a noble pursuit of quality, balance, and sustainability in their wines. Properties submit their wines for assessment by a verification body to determine benchmarks for terroir expression and Bourgeois winemaking excellence.
In a conversation with Armelle Cruse, vice president of the Cru Bourgeois board, – Les Crus Bourgeois – I had the pleasure of learning about the key principles underpinning the 2025 classification release and what we can expect from the wineries set to be revealed in February 2025.
Joining the family: tests and tasting
First and foremost, aspiring members of the Crus Bourgeois ‘family’ must pass several tests, including a blind tasting of five vintages. For the 2025 classification, the vintages tasted blind were 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, and 2021. One might lament the absence of the much-lauded 2022 vintage, but rest assured, its time will come. It will feature in the 2030 classification once it has matured appropriately for assessment.
A noteworthy change in the regulations is the removal of an exemption introduced in 2020. Previously, wineries that had been part of the Crus Bourgeois family for five years were not required to retake the blind tasting. From the 2025 classification onwards, however, all properties must present their wines for evaluation to ensure ongoing quality and consistency.
Sustainability at the forefront
Sustainability has become a cornerstone of the Crus Bourgeois ethos. From 2025, only wineries that actively promote environmentally responsible viticulture will be approved for classification. Every château must now demonstrate its commitment through environmental certification.
While these criteria may suffice for entry-level Cru Bourgeois status, properties aspiring to reach the Supérieur or Exceptionnel tiers must prove their technical expertise from vine to bottle. They must also showcase strong marketing efforts, such as promoting their wines through oenotourism or expanding distribution channels.
A consumer-centric approach
The 2025 classification continues to emphasise consumer trust and accessibility. The Crus Bourgeois family has enhanced its use of QR-code-based stickers, which have been in place for several years, to guarantee authenticity and quality. This initiative underlines their commitment to offering exceptional wines at approachable prices, with a particular focus on those ready to drink upon release.
While the AOCs impose certain restrictions on winemaking, châteaux retain a degree of flexibility in style which allows them to emphasise either fruit-forward profiles or the expression of their unique terroir. The overarching aim remains clear: to produce wines that are approachable, balanced, and of consistent quality.
Regular checks and regional cooperation
From 2025 onwards, classified wineries will be subject to regular tastings by the verification body throughout the five-year classification period. Armelle Cruse emphasised that the classification remains open to all Médoc producers but also aims to retain its "stars." She spoke passionately about fostering cooperation among wineries committed to the shared vision of quality and regional development.
As February 2025 approaches, the family is already looking ahead to 2030. Plans include simplifying and automating administrative processes, such as labelling, with the help of emerging AI technologies. The future of Crus Bourgeois indeed appears bright.
In conclusion then the sharp drop in the number of Crus Bourgeois chateaux from 250 to 170 is due to a number of factors:
- the classification criteria was stricter (HVE certification requirements)
- blind tasting of the 5 vintages was required for all levels
- some châteaux chose not to “enter” this year
A sneak peek at the 2022 vintage
The Alliance of the Crus Bourgeois du Médoc held a tasting of its members’ 2022 wines in November to demonstrate the quality of this highly-regarded vintage. Confusingly, the 2022 vintage is one of five years that will be used to assess who’s in and who’s out as a Crus Bourgeois producer in 2030.
The 15 stand-out wines from this tasting of 2022 might, therefore, be wines produced by an estate not making the final cut in 2030. They were still outstanding wines and are worth noting.
15 Cru Bourgeois from the 2022 vintage
Cru Bourgeois
Château d’Argan (Médoc)
Soils: Clay-limestone.
Blend: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot.
A delightful wine with a charming nose showcasing tertiary aromas of forest floor, complemented by floral overtones of violets and roses. The palate is well-rounded with soft tannins and a lingering finish.
Château Escot (Médoc)
Soils: Clay-gravel.
Blend: 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot.
Floral aromas intertwine with ripe red fruit, particularly cherries and raspberries, leading to a silky, rich palate. The balance between fruitiness and structure is enhanced by careful ageing in both barrels and vats.
Château Haut Maurac (Médoc)
Soils: Gravel ridge and clay-limestone.
Blend: 60% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Malbec.
A powerful and fruit-forward wine with bold notes of blackberries and plums. Subtle hints of cedar and forest underbrush add complexity. The long finish carries a subtle touch of oak, making it a wine of great depth.
Château les Lattes (Médoc)
Soils: Gravelly subsoil.
Blend: 52% Merlot, 48% Cabernet Sauvignon.
This wine surprises with its refreshing strawberry and cranberry notes. Bright acidity and a medium finish make it a lively, approachable choice with a lovely balance of freshness and fruit.
Château d’Aurilhac (Haut-Médoc)
Soils: Gravel-clay-limestone.
Blend: 69% Merlot, 23.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7.5% Petit Verdot.
An aromatic gem, offering sour strawberries and raspberries on the nose. On the palate, it is silky and fruit-forward, with soft tannins and a finish that lingers elegantly.
Cru Bourgeois Supérieur
Château Magnol (Haut-Médoc)
Soils: Sandy gravelly.
Blend: 47% Merlot, 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot.
Fruit-forward and vibrant, this wine delivers a harmonious bouquet of red and black fruits. A fantastic wine with a long, fruity finish that leaves a lasting impression.
Château Beaumont (Haut-Médoc)
Soils: Gravel-sandy.
Blend: 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot.
Notes of black pepper and sweet spices complement layers of cassis and blackberry. The palate is silky and elegant, with a balanced finish that lingers beautifully.
Château Lamothe Bergeron (Haut-Médoc)
Soils: Garonne gravel.
Blend: 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot.
A structured wine with robust flavours of blackcurrant and plum, underpinned by hints of tobacco and cedar. The powerful style is balanced by a refined, long finish.
Château Larose Perganson (Haut-Médoc)
Soils: Gunzian gravels.
Blend: 55% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon.
Sour cherry and raspberry dominate the palate, with lively acidity and slightly grippy tannins. A wine with potential to develop further, offering promise for the patient collector.
Château Reysson (Haut-Médoc)
Soils: Plateau and clay-limestone.
Blend: 88% Merlot, 9% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc.
Intense and powerful, showcasing silky tannins wrapped around black cherry and dark chocolate notes. A complex wine with exceptional elegance.
Château Mongravey (Margaux)
Soils: Quaternary Garonne gravels.
Blend: 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc.
A forward fruit nose bursting with blackberries and redcurrants. The palate is lush and silky, with a finish so perfect it earned a personal favourite status (though I tried not to have one).
Château Tour des Termes (Saint-Estèphe)
Soils: Gravel-limestone.
Blend: 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot.
A ripe red-fruit profile with layers of cherry, plum, and a hint of vanilla. The super-long finish and balanced acidity make it a truly beautiful wine.
Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel
Château d’Agassac (Haut-Médoc)
Soils: Gravelly ridges.
Blend: 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc.
A standout wine, elegant and beautifully structured, with a harmonious balance of ripe blackcurrant and savoury notes of graphite and spice. A benchmark for the classification.
Château le Crock (Saint-Estèphe)
Soils: Garonne gravels on sandy clay.
Blend: 44% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot.
This wine is truly exceptional, with concentrated flavours of cassis, black cherry, and a touch of dark chocolate. The tannins are velvety, and the finish is impeccable. Chapeau bas!
Château Lilian Ladouys (Saint-Estèphe)
Soils: Clay-gravel on limestone subsoil.
Blend: 52% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Petit Verdot.
Rich and complex, with vibrant notes of red berries, a hint of spice, and subtle floral undertones. The intriguing character and fine balance make it a must-try.
