Blackbook has used upcoming local designers to make the eye-catching and innovative label designs.
After the success of urban wineries across the pond, London, in recent years has also started to develop a fondness for city-based wine cellars. As the (micro)brewers step up, and generations X and Y are knocking back Beavertown and other RTDs (Ready to Drinks) like they are going out of fashion, it was only a matter of time before London’s urban winemaking scene followed suit and kicked off.
What does a background as a runner for AEG, a passion for music and a sommelier for renowned restaurants such as Chez Bruce and Maze by Gordon Ramsay, all have in common? Search for the middle ground between them, and you’ll find enough minerals for all the qualities it takes to be a winemaker, that balance of science and romance.
That was the case for Sergio Verrillo; together with his wife Lynsey they are now owners and winemakers of Blackbook Winery. Although the last place you might have expected them to end up fermenting British Chardonnay and Pinot Noir would be in Battersea, London…
From personal experience, I have found that the better winemakers are those who find a middle ground between being hopeless romantics ‘at one’ with the universe, and those who are regimented and technical beyond the realms of fun. Like all good wine, there needs to be a balance between structure, heart and soul.
Sergio Verrillo
American born Sergio attended Plumpton College in 2010, where he graduated in 2014 with a degree in oenology. During his studies, Sergio harvest-hopped between hemispheres, spending time in Southern France, Sonoma, Burgundy, South Africa and, most recently, New Zealand with Ata Rangi – I guess you can start to see where the interest in Pinot and Chardonnay has been nurtured.
Sergio told me that after a boozy night at Brixton’s O2 Academy with his partner Lynsey, the concept of Blackbook was born:
The Blackbook Winery, Battersea, London
“We pride ourselves on buying fruit exclusively from the UK, unlike other urban wineries who often buy from overseas.”
Sergio and Lynsey source fruit from dry, warm pockets of vineyards between Essex and Norfolk, and are putting a bigger emphasis on still wine production over sparkling (about 75% to 25%).
I probed Sergio for a little more information on his still-over-sparkling focus.
“Of course the quality needs to be there,” he says, “But, sparkling wine production is quite new to me. Also, the UK is booming with quality sparkling… my passion lies with the Burgundian varietals.”
Blackbook’s inaugural vintage was as recent as 2017. Keen to understand a little more about where Sergio and Lynsey source their fruit from, I actually learned a thing or two about UK wine regions outside of the more celebrated areas, mostly to the south of London.
Interestingly, East Anglia’s microclimate had far more joy with frost problems than the more prolific areas such as Kent and Sussex.
“I am now looking to plant in East Anglia – Bacchus and Pinot Noir ripen particularly well there,” Sergio says.
“We are open to Sussex and other more famous wine producing counties to the south but, of course, the site has to be right, ideally south-facing.”
In 2017 Blackbook produced 5,500 bottles and are looking to increase that number up to 20,000 during the 2018 crush.
So, what’s it like having a winery in the middle of London? For starters, I can’t imagine one enjoys the sense of freedom that comes with a vineyard and winery operation in the south of France, for example.
However, Sergio is savouring the chance to produce wine in the capital. There is a distillery across the road – essential, of course. Transport links are great, giving them the ability to hand-drop the stock they are currently selling to around 15 bars and restaurants across the capital.
“We have been well received within the trade. I find the UK wine trade to be pretty friendly. People have also been particularly open to us as we are buying only UK fruit and working with pretty small growers.”
Outside of the East Anglia connection, Blackbook also takes fruit from Clayhill Vineyard, Essex, and Yew Tree Vineyard in Oxfordshire.
WHAT’S IN THE BOTTLE?
Blackbook ferment 75% of their wines in barrel, and Sergio sources puncheons (500l) and barriques (225l), mostly from Burgundy.
Blackbook Chardonnay, 2017
This fruit is from the Clayhill vineyard, Essex. Whole bunch pressed and indigenous fermentation, and sits on the lees for two months.
Attractive and seductively sweet on the nose. A tart, lean mouth feel packed with fresh, green apples and spice.
“Clayhill is a great site for Chardonnay. Sunshine hours are good. I try not to focus too much on sugar levels and brix, ahead of phenolic ripeness. I feel that many commercial producers in the UK are a little crop obsessed, it would be nice to see a bigger focus on premium fruit, that is what we are trying to achieve here at Blackbook”.
Blackbook Pinot Noir, 2017
The Pinot cultivated here is a Dijon clone. Aged in five to ten-year-old Burgundy barrels for seven months. Like the Chardonnay this is whole bunch pressed, unfined and unfiltered. Horse saddle leather and truffle, but not too much that it spoils the subtle red fruit character. A fresh and clean wine with good tannins and structure.
Blackbook Rosé, 2017
A single vineyard pink made from Pinot Noir. A nose of candyfloss and bubblegum. Textured, and showing plenty of personality, medium to light bodied. A short cold soak is followed by another whole bunch press. Ageing on lees in tank (75%) and barrel.
Perhaps one of the biggest talking points about Blackbook’s wines, are the labels.
In a word, cool.
Sergio and Lynsey have made the most of the young, artistic talent available in London, and have commissioned students from the London School of Design to create some of the quirkiest, most interesting wine labels I’ve seen for a while.
With a hands-off, low intervention approach to producing British table wine, Sergio and Lynsey Verrillo look like they might be on to something here with their Blackbook philosophy. They join the likes of Renegade and London Cru with a refreshing faith in British fruit, adding to the capital’s ever-growing, colourful, world beating wine scene.
Many thanks to Sergio Verrillo for taking the time to speak with me.
Happy Drinking
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