“Give people the quality they are paying for.” A fine mantra for the New Wave Burgundians if ever I heard one.
Arnaud Boué is chatting during a Zoom tasting about how far prices have got out of hand in the region.
“We are reaching a crisis in Burgundy where the price does not reflect the quality any more – there are too many wines sold for around €100 for village wines that are just not worth a simple Bourgogne – I have seen this for a long time that Burgundy is going through a crisis… give people the quality they are paying for.”
Although Arnaud Boué’s wines are new to the UK he is well established in the region, having spent 10 years working as a winemaker in South Africa, New Zealand, Bordeaux (Château Gazin), and then back home in Burgundy at both Domaine David Duband and Domaine des Lambrays.
Where Arnaud Boué is based on the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits
In 2018, however, he was given the opportunity to take the reins of a small winery in the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits – a region he focuses on "by chance and by choice" – where he creates a series of minute-production cuvées from grapes grown by a handful of artisan growers.
“In the manner of an estate, we work with wine growers on long-term contracts, combining monitoring and advice, to get the vines to produce fruit representative of their original terroirs," he explains. "In the winery, there is little intervention. The vinifications – gentle, natural but controlled – are followed by an ageing process that respects the characteristics of the wines so as not to distort the expression of the terroirs.”
"My philosophy is to make every level of price – to give people the best wine they could afford."
Boué’s aim is to make terroir-driven wines characteristic of their vintage and their appellation. But he also wants to make wines that lovers of Burgundy can afford. Tasting through the range he sent me I was singularly impressed with the quality which almost unanimously punched above the price-point.
“I like to present you entry level wines because I guess if we can make great entry level wines in such a nice terroir then we will be making very nice Grand Crus,” Boué says, revealing that his portfolio is about to expand in the premium wines – 2023 will see him almost triple the amount of Premier Cru wines he’s making and he has also bought three different Grand Cru.
“My range is growing one step higher. That’s what I am working on. The entry level is the best part to show it because it is easy to make a Grand Cru, a good Grand Cru, but it is less easy to make a very great Aligoté or great Coteaux Bourguignons and that’s the idea of the selection we made for you."
“I don’t come from a ‘good’ family so I don’t say 'I’m the son of Aubert de Villane and now I will sell you a bottle for €1000'. I try to keep the quality/ price ratio even, although our Grands Crus will be expensive because the grapes we are buying are expensive. But I hope it will be recognised because my philosophy is to make each level of price – to give people the best wine they could afford.”
So how were the Arnaud Boué wines tasting?
Iconoclaste Cuvée Arthur, 2020, Coteaux Bourguignons, Arnaud Boué
Pinot Blanc 66% Aligoté 34% 13.5% abv
Light gold, fleshy ripe orchard fruit and white peach on the nose, lovely depth, woodland honey and a woody note; medium bodied, broad mouthfeel, gorgeous flavours – just-ripe apple – precise, dry, river stone finish. Very moreish and gastronomic.
Bourgogne Aligoté, 2021, Arnaud Boué
From Aligoté Doré, a genetic mutation of Aligoté that produces a richer more rounded wine; Light gold, aromas of lime, white flowers, fresh wood shavings; at first you detect a creamy note to the palate, then a citrus-driven, crisp, slightly austere tightly-wound mouthfeel, clearly Aligoté but of a high standard. Great with seafood and vegetarian dishes. 12% abv
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits, 2021, Arnaud Boué
Inviting nose of lemon blossom and star anise; in the mouth the palate is deceptively broad at first, then crisp, focused, lovely mineral element, cream, ripe, fresh orchard fruit. Chalky finish. 12.5% abv
Côte de Nuits-Villages blanc, 2020, Arnaud Boué
Terrific white Burgundy that punches well above its weight. Pretty aromas of white flowers, wild fennel flowers, citrus, something from the patisserie; the palate is crisp and fruity with a chalky dry finish. 13% abv
Bourgogne Gamay 2021, Arnaud Boué
Light purple-ruby to look at; aromas of black and red fruits-of-the-forest, a touch of sous bois. On the palate the wine is fresh, light and crisp – it’s a really Pinot ‘translation’ of Gamay if you will. Great acidity and freshness, softer, more rounded finish cp to the next wine. 12% abv
Coteaux Bourguignons Gamay 2021, Arnaud Boué
Very light purple-ruby; aromas of blueberry, spicy plum. In the mouth the wine is light on its feet – fresh, crisp textured palate – then you find nice tart red berry flavours coming through (raspberry, red plum), a good rasp of ripe tannin and texture. Tart raspberry finish. Excellent to have such light alcohol too. 11.5% abv
Côte de Nuits-Villages rouge, 2021, Arnaud Boué
Not such a well-known appellation within the Côte de Nuits, this is the first of Boué’s wines to be certified organic.
Light purple-ruby, almost transparent, beautiful and delicate bouquet – raspberries, crème de fraises, black rose. In the mouth the wine is fresh, elegant, lovely balance, ripe supple tannins, just-ripe red fruit, a woody note and a bite of citrus on the finish. 12.5% abv
Nuits-Saint-Georges, 2021, Arnaud Boué
From two parcels located to the north of the village, bordering the Premier Crus. Light, transparent purple-ruby, summer pudding, red berries, lifted perfume, a touch of vanilla. Ripe, fresh, open, lovely flavours, crunchy red fruit, mineral, very fine-boned tannins, well balanced between fleshy fruit and crisp acidity. Elegant style for a Nuits-Saint-Georges. 12.5% abv
Gevrey-Chambertin, 2021, Arnaud Boué
Only 10% new wood is used on this fine Gevrey-Chambertin from La Croix des Champs terroir. Darker ruby, beautiful floral notes, darker fruits, more heft, spice, concentration. On the palate the wine is expressive. Warm and juicy, fresh, wild strawberries, darker notes coming through, great balance and firm acidity cloaked by ripe, fleshy fruit. Long length. Excellent. 12.5% abv
