Corney & Barrow has long been a cornerstone of the UK wine industry, renowned for curating a portfolio that balances elegance and character. Its commitment to both producers and customers is evident not only in the quality of the wines on show but also in the strong, enduring relationships cultivated on both sides. This year’s Christmas press tasting was showcasing an intimate lineup that allowed the wines - and the stories behind them - to truly shine.
The tasting featured a carefully selected array of wines, reflecting the diversity and depth that Corney & Barrow is known for, without overwhelming the palate or the room. From classic regions to more niche offerings, the event provided a chance to explore the subtleties of each wine, highlighting the company’s commitment to excellence.
Corney & Barrow was among the first importers I encountered when I entered the UK wine trade. At that time, promoting an emerging region like Hungary, I found them to be welcoming, open, and cooperative. Despite holding a Royal Warrant, and being known for its Bordeaux and Burgundy representation, Corney & Barrow’s openness to innovation and change is clear. It's not just about tradition; it's personal, creative, and forward-thinking.
Force of nature: Corney & Barrow's head of merchant buying Rebecca Palmer
Leading the charge in wine buying is Rebecca Palmer, a petite but immensely strong, smart, and widely admired woman in the industry. Everyone in the wine trade knows Rebecca – she's everywhere; a force of nature who embodies the strength of Corney & Barrow's buying strategy. It’s clear that senior management recognises the importance of placing a woman like Rebecca in a leadership role, demonstrating the progressive thinking that has kept Corney & Barrow at the forefront of the industry. Wine decisions are made by Rebecca at Corney & Barrow, and seamless teamwork between buying and selling ensures that its product portfolios are curated with precision and balance.
A major challenge for the business during the COVID-19 pandemic was launching its online wine shop. While it opened up direct-to-consumer sales, this move came with risks – particularly as half the business relies on the on-trade, where restaurants often prefer exclusive selections. Going direct could have easily upset some of its key clients. However, Corney & Barrow managed to carefully balance this shift, offering consumers access to great wines without compromising its relationships with restaurants or fine dining establishments. The company managed to keep both sides happy which, in itself, is no small feat.
In the aftermath of Brexit the UK on-trade is still struggling. Restaurants are closing, and the landscape is changing fast. Le Gavroche, for example, recently announced its closure after 56 years, marking the end of an era.
When I spoke to Tim Wheeldon, Corney & Barrow's head of London on-trade sales, he agreed that it's tough out there: "Yes, places are shutting down." His eyes lit up as he added, "but new ones are opening!"
That optimism shows Corney & Barrow’s forward-looking approach, even in uncertain times.
Collectors have always been an important part of Corney & Barrow’s clientele. Its ability to offer wines that appeal both to seasoned collectors and to restaurants speaks to a deep understanding of the market. As Liv-ex data shows, interest in fine wine – especially Bordeaux and Burgundy – remains strong, but there’s also a growing demand for diversity, something Corney & Barrow has fully embraced.
Corney & Barrow’s Christmas press tasting showcased some fantastic wine personalities within its portfolio. Led by a strong team, with people like Rebecca Palmer at the helm of buying decisions, together with her ‘fine wine’ buying counterpart Guy Seddon, it has navigated challenges, maintained key relationships, and continued to grow in an ever-changing market… But what about the wines?
Whites and sparkling
Corney & Barrow Sparkling Blanc de Blanc Methode Traditionelle, Extra Dry NV, France
A festive delight, this sparkling wine from Corney & Barrow is a testament to a commitment to creativity and value. It displays a medium gold hue with ripe apple and pear aromas, complemented by a subtle hint of biscuit. On the palate, it offers refreshing, linear acidity with crunchy, bright orchard fruit flavours, delicate effervescence, and a biscuity finish. Reminiscent of Crémant de Bourgogne, it’s cheerful and fun – perfect for celebrations. Outstanding value at £29.95 for a Magnum, and with just 11.5% ABV, you can enjoy a glass (or two). Initially produced for C&B by Varichon et Clerc in Jura, the production is now handled by the Boisset family group, using a blend of Ugni Blanc, Colombard, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, and Jacquère.
Cava Joan Sarda Reserva Brut NV, Penedes, Spain
Lately, I’ve developed a growing appreciation for Cava, and the Joan Sardà Reserva Brut NV perfectly embodies why. Its nose reveals a delightful mix of brioche, floral notes, and nutty complexity, while the palate showcases jasmine, red apple, and almond, creating an elegant yet vibrant profile. Lean and refined, it offers a smooth, limey texture, fine delicate bubbles, and great balance with a lengthy finish. Made in the traditional method, this Cava spent 24 months on the lees in a 17th-century farmhouse that now houses a modern, organic winery. Crafted from 50% Xarel-lo, 35% Macabeo, and 15% Parellada, this wine is a true find – and a great value at £14.25. 11.5% abv. Clever wine!
Breaky Bottom, Cuvee Michelle Moreau Brut, Traditional Method 2014, East Sussex, England
This English sparkling wine offers complexity, seriousness, and sophistication. Notes of doughy yeast unfold into layers of seaweed, lemon, caramelised pear, and a touch of sage, with fresh green apple adding brightness. It is marked by focused, chalky acidity, a round creamy mousse, and impressive length. A wine packed with so much character! A limited edition of 1,952 bottles, this wine was crafted in collaboration with Peter Hall of Breaky Bottom, Sussex, to commemorate Queen Elizabeth II’s Platinum Jubilee. The blend – 70% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Noir, and 15% Pinot Meunier – spent nearly seven years ageing on the lees, with disgorgement in late 2021.
Beginning Chardonnay The Lane 2022, Adelaide Hills, South Australia
The Beginning Chardonnay from The Lane is an Australian wine made in a Burgundian style, sourced from high-altitude vineyards (450m) in the Adelaide Hills. The estate, founded in 1993 by winemaker John Edwards, focuses on marrying the vibrant fruit character of Australian wines with the refined structure of Old World Chardonnay. Now led by winemaker Turon White, The Lane maintains its commitment to quality and expression of terroir.
The cool climate of the Adelaide Hills is evident in the wine's crisp acidity and balanced fruit profile. Matured in a combination of old and new French oak with lees contact, it offers a well-structured palate with fresh citrus, stone fruit, and subtle oak. This balanced Chardonnay pairs well with Christmas turkey, offering both freshness and depth.
Dr. H. Thanisch, Estate Riesling Kabinett 2022, Mosel, Germany
Expect precision and complexity, with classic notes of rubber, petrol, aniseed, and fennel, balanced by crunchy, linear acidity and low alcohol – a true Mosel classic. The tangy palate bursts with green apple, peach, apricot, lime, and lemon, all wrapped in a lovely mineral finish. If you’re craving a wine that brings the zest of lemon sherbet to your holiday table, this is the perfect choice.
The estate, overseen by Sofia Thanisch, boasts a rich history dating back to 1636 and is renowned for its sustainable viticulture and ungrafted Riesling vines. Sofia is the fourth generation of women to run the estate, with her daughter Christina poised to continue this remarkable legacy.
Barta, Öregkirály Dűlő, Dry Furmint 2022, Mád, Tokaj, Hungary
This one comes with a bit of personal history – back in the day, I introduced Barta to Corney & Barrow. So perhaps I’m a bit biased, but after tasting through all the whites, this Furmint truly stood out. If you haven’t yet tried Furmint, I like to call it a "red drinker’s white." If you have, you’ll know the layered complexity it brings. Barta is a small, organically farmed 12-hectare diamond, perched on the highest south-facing slope in Mád, Tokaj. The calcareous volcanic soils, scattered with stones from an ancient eruption – known locally as “monkey brain” – give this wine its unique character.
This single-vineyard 2022 vintage is still youthful, making it the perfect Christmas gift but it will have no problem stepping up the game to a versatile food pairing. On the nose, expect honey, mint, stone fruit, and lychee. The palate is linear, with excellent balance and an underlying roundness that’s still developing – probably for the next ten years if there is any left. Complex and long, this wine has a promising future. You can pair it with almost anything rich and fatty, it’s that adaptable.
Ambriel Huzzah Rosé, Traditional Method, Brut MV
I can imagine sipping this rosé while watching Swan Lake at the opera this Christmas – it would brighten the day, no matter how grey the weather. Full of delight, this wine is kind, cheeky, and vibrant, with notes of honey, small red fruits, reminiscent of a comforting rhubarb crumble and a subtle hint of garden mint. It’s elegantly tangy, with a subtle, luscious length, thanks to the 10 g/l dosage. Perfectly balanced and utterly lovable.
Founded in 2006 by Wendy and Charles Outhwaite, Ambriel is nestled in Nutbourne, West Sussex. After an extensive five-year search, they found their ideal vineyard site: south-facing slopes on prized greensand soils, perfect for growing sparkling wine grapes in England’s cool climate. The Outhwaites prioritise sustainable methods and the natural high acidity of English grapes, choosing to let the wine evolve on the lees and in the bottle for 68 months, without malolactic fermentation. The name "Huzzah," printed on every cork, captures the wine’s joyous, vibrant spirit.
Naranjo Torontel Loncomilla Maturana Wines 2022, Maule Valley, Chile
Who says orange wine has to be serious? This one is delightfully easy-drinking, with aromas of white tea, exotic fruits, and potpourri. Clean and focused, it reveals layers of honey, orange peel, and white flowers, all wrapped in a delicate yet well-structured tannin frame. The bright, tangy acidity leads to an elegant, herbaceous, and refreshing finish.
Crafted from nearly 80-year-old vines, this unfiltered Moscatel de Alejandría is macerated on its skins for 90 days, resulting in a wine of unique character. With a 13.5% abv, it offers complexity without losing its laid-back charm.
Fino Vina Corrales, Pago Balbaina, Jerez, Spain
Looking forward to Christmas in September thanks to sherry, this fino stands out for its depth and complexity. The flor influence imparts distinct aromas of olives, umami, and briny saltiness. On the palate, it’s dry yet layered, with subtle notes of marzipan, almonds and dough, finishing long with a savoury, saline tang. Its balance of freshness and structure makes it an engaging companion for the festive season. Acquired by Peter Sisseck renowned for his iconic Dominio de Pingus in Ribera del Duero, joined forces with the Del Río family to acquire the Viña Corrales estate in Jerez, Spain, in 2017. Sisseck focuses on minimal intervention and sustainable practices, producing a Fino sherry aged in a traditional solera system and bottled en rama for added texture. Great value, considering its complexity at £34.25.
Reds
Joostenberg Estate, Family Blend 2021, Paarl, South Africa
This Syrah-dominant blend (83% Syrah, 13% Mourvèdre, 4% Touriga Nacional) from Muldersvlei, Paarl, reveals a striking garnet hue with smoky aromas of black fruit – ripe plum, olives, and cloves. On the palate, it’s full-bodied with velvety tannins, offering a seamless balance between its fruity and savoury elements. The dry, fruit-forward finish lingers like the unexpected arrival of a long-lost relative at Christmas – charming and warmly familiar.
The wine underwent natural fermentation with 70% whole bunches, followed by nine months of ageing in seasoned oak and stainless steel, with an additional six months in bottle. Joostenberg Estate, led by brothers Tyrrel and Philip Myburgh, has been in their family for five generations. Since reviving the estate in 1999, they’ve committed to organic farming, achieving certified organic status in 2012 and embracing minimal-intervention practices to capture the essence of their unique terroir. Amazing value at £15.25 for a wine so well made.
L’Aurage, Castillon-Côtes de Bordeaux 2020, Bordeaux, France
It’s telling when a South African blend sits next to a Bordeaux and the Bordeaux has 1.5% more alcohol and the South African is fraction of the price, yet this wine handles it with grace and harmony. A true Bordeaux classic, it brims with personality. Aromas of umami, black pepper, and juicy raspberry and strawberry lead the way, evolving into rich blackcurrant, tobacco, blackberry, and bramble notes. The tannins are focused, round, and elegant, with a full body and an impressively long, satisfying finish.
L'Aurage is the passion project of Louis Mitjavile, who gained his winemaking expertise working alongside his father François at Tertre Roteboeuf and Roc de Cambes. Situated in Castillon-Côtes de Bordeaux, the vineyard shares the same clay-limestone soils as nearby Saint-Émilion, with 95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. The 2020 vintage underwent natural fermentation and matured for 18-20 months in 100% new French oak, resulting in a wine of exceptional depth and balance. (For a more in-depth look at L’Aurage click here)
Ridolfi, Brunello di Montalcino 2017, Tuscany, Italy
This Brunello beautifully captures the essence of the region with its powerful delicacy. A full-bodied, elegant Sangiovese with a structure of nutmeg, frankincense, red cherry, raspberry, and chocolate, framed by subtle oak. It shows signs of ageing with tertiary notes – a hot vintage. Priced justifiably for its balance and delicacy (at £51.50), it’s produced from 100% hand-harvested Sangiovese, aged for 36 months in Slavonian oak barrels, and a further 12 months in bottle. Ridolfi, established in 2011, traces its Tuscan roots back to 1290, with Gianni Maccari leading the estate to highlight the unique expression of each vintage.
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