Gallo's luxury portfolio tasting in London in late March underlined what a wide range of premium and icon Californian wines it presides over. Double-digit growth of the US company’s luxury portfolio in each of the previous five years was restricted to 7% in 2024, but that still represented good progress given the challenges facing the wine industry as a whole.
Edouard Baijot MW, Gallo’s director of luxury international, who flew in from his base in France, pointed to worldwide production of wine exceeding demand by 10% in 2023.
Edouard Baijot MW with Mercury Head Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
“While we were aware that distributors were holding inventory, it became evident that retailers, independent sellers, restaurants and even end-consumers were also overstocked, resulting in reduced transaction volumes,” he said.
Baijot, though, is hopeful of a surge in growth in 2025 thanks to the recent acquisition of three Californian wineries of exceptional quality: Denner Vineyards, Rombauer Vineyards and Massican. The latter, since its founding in 2009, is that rarity in California – a white wine-only producer. This impressive triumvirate was part of a ten-strong bevvy of wineries represented at the tasting where over 40 wines from Napa Valley, Sonoma County, Santa Lucia Highlands, the Sierra Foothills and Santa Maria Valley were shown.
Denner, the boutique Paso Robles winery, and Massican, the Carneros producer, had not been available before to the UK trade to taste. Gallo’s marketing manager for the luxury portfolio, Fabianne Jones, said she had received ‘positive’ feedback from the trade for Denner during the tasting, although its UK allocation this year will be small – 60 cases for the on-trade and private clients.
“The idea is to show the diversity of our luxury portfolio to the local trade,” Baijot declared. “When you think about Gallo, a lot of people don't necessarily consider the luxury side of the business which is now more and more important as the family began to invest in luxury estates 20 years ago with the acquisition of Louis M. Martini in 2002.”
As it is a family-owned concern, Gallo does not release its accounts but Baijot did reveal its luxury business impacts “significantly” on revenue with a growing share year on year.
Orin Swift's distinctive labels: Papillon Napa Valley Red Wine 2020
For Baijot, all channels are as important as each other.
“We have a multi-channel approach – namely not to put all brands in the same channels,” he added. “Pahlmeyer, for example, is more for private clients. It is sold on allocation in small volumes, so is a bit more exclusive. Massican or The Language of Yes Syrah or Grenache labels are 100% dedicated for sommeliers, as the price is perfect for by-the-glass. It all depends on consumer segmentation: it’s important to talk to every single channel and every consumer, and to show our partners the diversity of California – its varieties, climate and style, and also price as we have different price positioning.”
“London is a big focus but we try to be national and have nice distribution. We don't want to be everywhere but at the right places. We focus on 20-25 markets for luxury full stop, where we know we have the potential appropriate partners.”
The portfolio consists of Massican, Talbott, Denner, Language of Yes, Rombauer, Louis M. Martini, Orin Swift, J Vineyards, Pahlmeyer and its second label, Jayson. The largest volume brands are Orin Swift and Rombauer, which represent almost 80% of Gallo’s luxury revenue, followed by Louis M. Martini and Pahlmeyer.
Orin Swift
As many as ten Orin Swift labels were available for tasting. The winery was founded in 1998 by celebrated winemaker Dave Phinney, who named it after his father’s middle name, Orin, and his mother’s maiden name, Swift. Artistic, often wacky labels are his watchword, with a couple worth highlighting.
The Papillon Napa Valley Red Wine 2020 (£65 RSP), features a weathered farm hand, with the letters making up Papillon ('butterly' in French) on eight fingers. A Bordeaux blend, it is, as befitting the label, delicate yet brawny, and nuanced yet bold. The Mercury Head Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 (£107 RSP) has no front label but an old Mercury dime embedded in the bottle. These were minted between 1916 and 1945, and have rare value. The UK receives only 40 cases per annum of both the Papillon and Mercury Head labels.
Rombauer Vineyards
Rombauer Vineyards was founded in 1980 by former airline pilot Koerner Rombauer and wife Joan. Its Carneros Chardonnay has long been acclaimed as one of America’s best, and the 2022 (£45 RSP) is rich and creamy, having been lees-stirred every two weeks and put through full malolactic fermentation. Vibrant freshness is also apparent from this cool climate site with intense citrus fruit. Rombauer’s El Dorado Zinfandel 2021 (£51 RSP) is a pure expression of Californian Zin – concentrated and fruit-forward with classic brambly notes and an earthy character with spiciness.
Talbott Vineyards
Talbott Vineyards is located at the base of the Santa Lucia Highlands, one of the coolest wine-producing climates in California. Its Sleepy Hollow vineyard is widely regarded in America as a California Grand Cru Chardonnay site, being cooled by extended morning fog and reliable maritime winds. A longer growing season – harvest is 2-3 weeks later than Napa or Sonoma – produces rich, complex Chardonnay and Pinot Noir fruit that has spectacular acidity. Founder Robb Talbott Jr says both wines “took their inspiration from Burgundy but had their roots in California’s soils.” Each showed superbly with a real sense of place.
Massican
So too did the three Massican whites from the 2023 vintage – the Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay (£55 RSP), the Gemina (£40, a blend of Greco and Falanghina) and the Annia (£35, a blend of Ribolla Gialla, Friulano and Chardonnay). “If sommeliers are looking for something totally different, then these wines are perfect,” Baijot mused.
Denner Vineyards
Denner Vineyards’ three reds from the 2021 vintage were among the stars of the show – the Ditch Digger (a GSM blend), the Dirt Worshipper (85% Syrah with Viognier, Petit Verdot and Tannat making up the balance) and Mother of Exiles (a Bordeaux blend). Calcareous clay, organically-farmed vineyards soaring to 1,000 feet produce wines of power, finesse and balance. A wide diurnal range gives them freshness. Previously, all Denner’s wines were sold direct-to-consumer.
“International exposure has been quite limited as a result, so that’s why we’re excited to show the wine today,” Baijot said.
Tasting through the Gallo luxury portfolio, London's Mandarin Oriental, March 24, 2025
Louis M. Martini
For Cabernet Sauvignon lovers, the wines of Louis M. Martini offered exceptional quality at varying price points, ranging from £29 DPD to three figures. The winery is a true Cabernet specialist, 90% of its production being from the grape. Its Monte Rosso Vineyard, at 300m in the Mayacamas Mountains, contains some of California’s oldest vines which produce some of the state’s most acclaimed Cabernet. The winery’s flagship label - Lot No 1 - comprises fruit from prime sites including Stagecoach, Atlas Peak, Howell Mountain, Stags Leap and Oakville. The 2013, 2015, 2017 and 2018 vintages of it were available for tasting, with the much-lauded 2013 priced at £253 DPD. Power, depth and intensity, yet polish and elegance, are its watchwords.
Louis M. Martini also produces some outstanding Zinfandel from 19th century vines. Planted in 1893 in the Monte Rosso Vineyard, these gnarled, ungrafted vines yield only 1.5 to 3 tons per acre but fruit with deep concentration, elegance and dusty spice. The 2018 vintage offered real value at £43 DPD.
Pahlmeyer
Napa Valley producer, Pahlmeyer, likewise impressed with its Proprietary Red 2018 & 2019 Bordeaux blend vintages. Opulence and structure mark both these wines, which have very long ageing potential. As winemaker, Katie Vogts, points out: “In Napa, you’re focussing on the long-term.” The Pahlmeyer Chardonnay 2020 (£66 DPD), some of whose fruit came from Haynes Vineyard vines planted in 1967, has richness yet freshness with an enticing saline finish.
To cap off a splendid tasting, the J Vineyards Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from 2022 and 2023 in the Russian River Valley offered terrific value at £23 and £27 DPD respectively. Nicole Hitchcock, head winemaker since 2015, has skilfully crafted the Pinot from 40 individual small lots. Dark cherry, plum and raspberry notes, with hints of earth and clove, are evident. Her Chardonnay’s honeysuckle, citrus and lemon peel notes were a delight.
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