The annual Armit Wines portfolio trade tasting did not disappoint. The importer’s renowned Italian list showed as regally as the imposing surrounds of One Great George Street, backed up by a fine, varied selection of Burgundy, Bordeaux and Champagne.
Throw in a brilliant new addition from Slovenia, ten other excellent Old World producers, as well as several fine New World wineries, and you had a collection to satisfy the most demanding of on-trade buyers and private clients. For the company has long cherished the latter’s custom, which originally underpinned John Armit’s successful launch before the trade came on board later.
Fleming on trade pressure
"I’ve had to employ staff just to administer the new taxation – it’s ludicrous.” Armit MD Brett Fleming (r) with Claudio Fenocchio
Presiding proudly over the tasting was Armit’s managing director, Brett Fleming, who had every justification in beginning with a withering tirade against government policy towards the drinks trade.
“We are under unprecedented pressure in the trade – from legislation, tax and the changing climate – and there doesn't seem to be an understanding from government about the impact of all that,” he said. “The government aren't listening. We’ve got the EPR [Extended Producer Responsibility] coming, which is going to add further challenges to the industry, and the way that has been communicated is woeful. If we had a private enterprise acting in the way that EPR has been communicated, that company would be bust.”
“Businesses have to plan for this but we can’t plan for something that is so muddled. The government just don't seem to care or understand that lives, mortgages and families are at risk because of their policies. They say it’s ‘a Tory tax’ but they have the power to repeal it. It was supposed to simplify the taxation but it’s gone from one rate to 15 rates. I’ve had to employ staff just to administer the new taxation – it’s ludicrous.”
Fleming, though, has long been one to embrace a positive glass-half-full mantra.
“Nonetheless, I’m optimistic – we see opportunity in the premium on-trade particularly even though there’s been an exodus of wealth – notably out of London,” he continued. “There is still a lot of tourism that comes and a lot of demand. I know this as it’s quite a challenge getting a booking at some of the top restaurants because they're so busy. Good luck trying to get a place at River Cafe at the moment!”
“So it’s still buoyant in that respect, but I think everything below that is really struggling. And they’re struggling for all the same reasons that the industry is – getting staff, national insurance contributions going up, finding the people who want to put those hard yards in. We have extraordinary suppliers and I don't see that necessarily changing – at least I hope it won’t.”
Bordeaux en primeur campaign
Armit portfolio director Nicolas Clerc MS: "Nicolas is really the one who signs off what is coming into the portfolio. If it’s not good enough, we won’t bring it in,” says Fleming.
The importance of private client business to Armit Wines remains high, and Fleming is hoping Bordeaux’s en primeur pricing this year is particularly significant.
“Private clients have declined in their spend – there’s no question about that,” he added. “Is that going to change? I think the coming Bordeaux en primeur campaign will be very interesting and challenging. The Bordelais have got to understand that the margin the negociants take has to be translated through added value to the distributors that are then taking the wines. I’m not sure that message is really understood. When you're only making a 10% margin, very few businesses can survive. We’re lucky as we have a few direct allocations from chateaux which makes a huge difference. Long-term partnerships and collaborative strategies are the key rather than ad hoc ones.”
One such example is the success Armit has had with Esprit de Pavie, the separate brand within the portfolio of Saint-Émilion Premier Grand Cru Classé producer, Château Pavie. Armit’s portfolio director, Nicolas Clerc MS, spotted in early 2022 that there was very little second or third label Bordeaux on wine lists by the glass as it was challenging to source.
“Nicolas felt there was a gap in that particular part of the market and, if we could get direct supply and have exclusive distribution, we could add genuine value to the restaurateur,” Fleming said. “That’s where Esprit de Pavie came in, and it has been very successful. I think we’ve done in the region of 14-16,000 bottles of it in the last three years. We also have a direct relationship with Lafleur in Pomerol and Les Carmes Haut-Brion in Pessac. The idea is that with each of the regions of Bordeaux we have a particular chateau with exclusive distribution for their second or third label. All for the premium on-trade.”
Jean-Christophe Couzet, commercial director for Pavie
Jean-Christophe Crouzet, commercial director for Château Pavie, was present to show all of Pavie’s labels, including the grands vins from 2008, 2010 and 2012. Unsurprisingly, the 2010 (RRP £400) was the pick, although still “a baby” in Crouzet’s view. Arômes de Pavie 2017, the second label (RRP £93) likewise showed impressively.
“Arômes de Pavie has sold really well here,” Crouzet commented. “It’s from a dedicated parcel on limestone – not the leftovers of Pavie. We wanted to keep the DNA of Pavie but provide a slightly different profile and taste. The ’17 vintage was blessed as there was no frost. That year is a turning-point for us as we reduced our new oak then to 70% and are using more Cabernet Franc as it brings a lovely floral character, whereas in the past it could be leafy and herbaceous. We are very pleased with the relationship established with Armit a few years ago – it’s growing and growing, and we can't wait to see the positive results coming in the next months and years.”
Elisa Sesti, winemaker for Sesti
The Armit Italian list, with 22 different wineries represented from all over the country, is as formidable as it is extensive with iconic performers like Bruno Giacosa from Piemonte, and Tenuta San Guido and Querciabella from Tuscany. Elisa Sesti’s 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Phenomena Riserva (RRP£96) caught the eye as did Giacomo Fenocchio’s 2020 Barolo Cannubi.
“We’re very proud of our Italian portfolio, it’s certainly the DNA of Armit,” Fleming declared. “But whilst it underpins our business and who we are, it doesn't define our business. You could just focus on Italy but I believe there’s opportunity outside of Italy that we can also benefit from. We are quite demanding of other producers so that they complement and add value to Armit’s Italian portfolio. Rockford from the Barossa is a good example and Domaine des Mapliers from Provence another. The latter’s Rosé is extraordinary.”
Charles-Louis de Noue, winemaker for Vini Noue- Marinic
One new signing has already made a major impression: Vini Noüe-Marinič from Slovenia. Charismatic winemaker, Charles-Louis de Noue, a cousin of the Leflaives in Burgundy, was on hand and wowed tasters with his three whites - Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia and Chardonnay - and one red, a Refosco. “Where we are in Brda is a great region for white wine,” de Noue professed. “We have the purest fruit expression.” His superb 2021 Domaine Vicomte de Noue Marinic, easily mistaken for a top Puligny, was aged in fifth fill barrels and retails at £64.
“They are amongst the most exciting wines we’ve brought in in the last year or so,” Fleming said of de Noue’s wines. “It’s been taken on by the trade nothing short of spectacularly. We’ve got by-the-glass listings in some of the top restaurants in the country. The private clients have really embraced it as it offers value for money even at the £50-60 mark. The wines are utterly delicious. We're very lucky that Charles-Louis considered Armit but Armit is about the excellence of any producer from anywhere in the world and we're very proud to have it in the business. We have had success with their wines ahead of the timeline you would associate with any new listing.”
Jean-Baptiste Geoffroy
Armit’s sparkling wine stable featured a high quality Prosecco from Duca di Dolle as well as a trio of celebrated Champagne producers – Gimonnet & Fils, Dival-Cotel and Champagne Geoffroy. The latter’s owner-winemaker, Jean-Baptiste Geoffroy, was present to show his outstanding 100% Pinot Meunier label - Tiersaudes Meunier Premier Cru 2019 (RRP£89), which spent 42 months on the lees. Farming organically, he adds no dosage to any of his labels. One of his five daughters, Sacha, is assistant winemaker.
“Jean-Baptiste has a lot of flair,” Nicolas Clerc said. “He’s a specialist in Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. His Meunier is based on 50% reserve wine - a sort of solera process though he doesn't call it that.”
Just over five years after joining Armit, Fleming has helped meld the company into a formidable outfit, but the ambitious New Zealander intends to raise the bar ever higher.
“I want Armit to become the premium fine wine supplier into the UK market,” he concluded. “And that’s a ten to fifteen-year journey. Nicolas is really the one who signs off what is coming into the portfolio. If it’s not good enough, we won’t bring it in.”
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