Paul Morgan, proprietor and wine buyer at Fourth and Church (restaurant/ bar/ shop)
Fourth and Church is a Hove-based restaurant, wine bar and wine shop. Award winning business specialising in a niche wine selection with a focus on sherry, Riesling, natural wines and everything in between. www.fourthandchurch.co.uk @paulmorgan954 @fourthandchurch
On our recent trip to Georgia, during the reception, Georgian wine expert Irakli Cholobargiathe introduced us to arguably the greatest viticultural region of the world, certainly the oldest, and following a week of visiting a variety of winemakers and their estates, I'm excited to highlight two or three of the wines that stood out for me.
Papari Valley Estate
Organic, re-planted post-Soviet era, very happy to work outside the PDOs, the cellar houses an intricate three terrace qvevri system, racking the wines via gravity. I enjoyed Rkatsiteli 2022, Qvevri 21, estate-produced grapes, with three months on the skins a pleasant grippy, mouth feel with restrained tropical fruits, dried apricot, ginger spice, a great introduction to the estate’s amber cuvées. I also have to talk about the Rkatsiteli Rose, 2023. A qvevri sample, not yet released, an unusual wine, white grape variety Rkatsiteli blended with 20% Mtsvane then, during fermentation, 20 litres of Saperavi skins are added to the qvevri; delicious, bright red fruit, wonderful structure and integrated tannin and a long, long finish, certainly a very grown-up rosé.
Solomnishvili Winery
Giorgi Solomnishvili's winery is situated in Telavi in the Khaketi wine region, where he is making some outstanding small-batch wines, producing between 20,000-25,000 bottles per year. His wines are all Saperavi, a grape that is a hugely versatile varietal and, with careful winemaking, can produce a huge array of different styles. We were met by a charismatic, intense philosophical man. A serious family man whose wines are a dedication to someone or something close to his heart. The understanding and love of his vineyards, terroir and the Saperavi grape allow him to craft wines that are complex, elegant and truly beguiling. In his words “Wine is the way I choose to communicate it's the way I express my unconditional love, an unwritten word, an unspoken communication.”
The first wine we tasted, Rkatsiteli Qvevri 2022, is a wine produced by his sister's estate – five months skin contact with the addition of some stems, a pale amber colour, very soft with subtle, aromatic and exotic spice, a very elegant wine leading us into Giorgi's range of Saperavi, my favourite being Solomnishvili #22, Saperavi, 2018. The #22 represents the house number, now a homage to Giorgi's father, steeped with historical artefacts and collections of interesting furniture and art and the house we were sat in to taste.
For the #22, the grapes are vinified using the traditional qvevri-ageing method, before spending 18 months in French oak barrels. A deep, deep colour, with an impressive and complex bouquet, rich and earthy, some black fruit and subtle soft oak lifted by a wonderful freshness. Soft and silky with blackberry, prune, and cracked black pepper and a finish that is long and spicy with smooth and ripe tannins.
Casreli Winery
A relatively new estate, Marani Casreli produces natural wine using traditional Georgian qvevri methods. A small 15 hectare vineyard with vines planted and nurtured by Marani using organic practice. We tasted several cuvées with the highlight for me being the 2021 Khikhvi amber wine, I enjoyed the dialed-up but balanced funk with a pleasant amount of tannin that tingled around my mouth, we were enjoying this with some very flavoursome bites which was a perfect combination. Most of Casreli's amber wines are bottled with a minimum of 14 months in qvervri or tank, unfiltered, no fining and no additions whatsoever. Marini an ex-medical man, storyteller, and wonderful host with a deft hand at letting his wines speak for themselves.
We currently stock and pour wines from Orgo winery in Kakheti, Pheasants Tears winery in Sighnaghi and Ramaz Nikoladze's wines also based in Kakheti.
We plan to add wines from the producers above in addition to a selection of cuvees from the Tiko Winery and Teliani Valley. Another range that I found extremely exciting which we plan to introduce are from one of the finest family-run estates Chelti just outside Shilda.
Watch this space!
Leonardo Barlondi, head sommelier at The Dorchester.
Leonardo left Italy in 2007 and worked in several different countries and cities, such as Copenhagen, Barcelona, Antigua and Barbuda, and London. When he arrived in 2014, Leonardo started working at Maze by Gordon Ramsay as a Commis Sommelier. Now he is currently the Head Sommelier at The Dorchester. www.dorchestercollection.com/london/the-dorchester @leosomm46
Shilda Winery, Saperavi (from 47-year-old vines)
This wine, sampled directly from the barrel, was made from Saperavi vines that are 47 years old, with 15.5% ABV. It was aged for one year in new French oak from Bousset cooperage and fermented with selected French yeast. While I don’t recall if it was tied to a specific label and unfortunately didn’t get to try the finished product , the barrel sample was impressive. It displayed a dark ruby color with purple rims and offered floral aromas of purple flowers and violets. On the palate, it had excellent concentration with notes of black plums, cassis, vanilla, and bitter chocolate. The high tannins were beautifully balanced with the wine's elevated alcohol level, showing great potential.
Papari Valley, 3 Qvevri Terraces, Qvevri No. 20 Rkatsiteli 2023 (12.5%)
Papari Valley was my favorite winery of the trip. The winemaking approach of the father-son duo, Nukri and Sandro, is particularly fascinating. Sandro, a philologist who came to winemaking later in life, taught himself the craft with humility, without attending formal enology courses. Using a gravity-based "solera" method for fermenting and ageing, they create unique wines. The 2023 Rkatsiteli has a light orange hue from three months of skin contact. The nose offers almond and honeysuckle, while the palate presents light tannins, quince, peach, honey, tropical fruits, a hint of umami, and a touch of cinnamon. It has a creamy, oily texture – round and pleasant, without being overpowering. This wine and the others from the winery are representing excellent value.
Tiko Estate, The Wild Shavkapito 2022
One of the great joys of these trips is discovering “underdog” grape varieties. While Saperavi is often thought of as Georgia's noble grape, it was a wonderful surprise to come across other varieties like Tavkveri and Shavkapito, which showed impressive consistency across several producers. The 2022 Shavkapito had a light ruby color, with aromas of red flowers, garrigue, and savoury herbs. On the palate, it was elegant with soft tannins and bright acidity, accompanied by flavors of dates, red plums, and red cherries.
At The Dorchester, we currently list two Georgian wines: the 2022 Rkatsiteli from Tbilvino and the 2020 Saperavi from Schuchmann.
David Archibald, sales director for House of Townend (wine merchant)
House of Townend supply good quality restaurants, hotels and pubs in the north of England and Midlands, along with a growing private trade from a retail website and shop. www.houseoftownend.com @houseoftownend
Before I visited Georgia, we stocked just seven Georgian wines – this trip has certainly given me an appetite for more, and to really focus on shouting about the ones we’ve got. It was without doubt the most fascinating wine visit I’ve ever been on – culturally, educationally and from an enjoyment perspective.
The visit to Giorgi Solomnishvili was an undoubted highlight – a truly inspirational character, putting his heart and soul into his wines. I was mesmerised by his sister’s white – Rkatsiteli made in bees wax-lined Qvervi – incredible concentration of flavour with huge energy – left my mouth tingling. I loved his reds especially the #22 Saperavi which we already ship.
We will also look to ship a new amber wine from GWS – Kitsi & Kitsnatsuri – 100% Rkatsiteli with a lovely orange blossom and honeyed character.
I enjoyed the walkaround tasting on the first day at Wine factory no 1, and was very taken with the Saperavi from Periani, along with Solomone winery, especially their Kvevri Tsitska-Tsolikouri which I will be considering for next year.
I can only see growth for Georgian wines in the UK, and very much look forward to being part of that.
Les Hall, retail sales consultant for The Wright Wine Company (specialist supplier of wines and spirits).
After a career in law for 20 years and running The Sparrow bar for 7 years, Les joined The Wright Wine Company in 2019. www.wineandwhisky.co.uk @thewrightwinecompany
We tasted a lot of wine over four days and I think it's fair to say that most of it was pretty decent. Inevitably, there were a few duffers (not that many) but also wine that was very good indeed and, on a few occasions, quite exceptional.
In terms of the winery visits, I really did enjoy them all. Given my preference for things on the 'low-fi' side, it's perhaps not surprising that I enjoyed Casreli and Papari the most.
Here are my four stand-out wines:
Casreli : 'Tsangala' Tetri Budeshuri/Chinuri
I really should have made more notes during this visit. But, frankly, I was enjoying myself too much! In fact, at one point in my notes I've simply written 'good vibes'. I loved everything about this little winery where the hospitality rating was well off the charts. This white wine was the first we tasted and I still remember now being on the end of a huge burst of flavour. Maybe some honey and apple, perhaps some herbs in the profile. In the style of the late John Peel reviewing demo tapes I’d marked this wine with 4 ticks and 2 exclamation marks. That, I think, says it all
Chateau Mukhrani : Shavkapito (2021)
Although only on day two of the trip when we visited this winery, we'd already had a good deal of Georgia’s signature red, Saperavi prior to tasting this wine which was fifth on the tasting list, as the first red, at Chateau Mukhrani. Clean and fresh, fairly light (I thought) red berries but with enough depth, this classic Kartli style wine had a real Pinot Noir feel to it. I really enjoyed this as a clear alternative to Saperavi.
Papari Winery : Rkatsiteli/Mtsvane (2023)
These are my exact notes: “Saperavi skins added. Wine has a real ros appearence. Delicate. Light berry fruit with a more tropical angle. Fig? Delicious. Best wine so far … This was the fifth wine at the Papari Winery tasting, markedly different I recall and a very real stand-out for me.
Papari Winery : Saperavi (2022) 14.5%
Again, my exact notes which I think really convey my enthusiasm for this wine!
“Warm vintage. Really savoury nose. Incredible aroma. Pickled green chilli. Ajvar. Tannins are bruising on this. Huge … powerful dark fruit too. This is the wine that preceded the 17.5% Saperavi. I loved that. But this one really hit the spot for me
In terms of Georgian wine at The Wright Wine Company we have a core range of 12. I'm certainly looking to add another couple if possible during the run-up to Christmas ; hopefully a fizz and a non-Saperavi red.
Here's the current team sheet :
Vachnadziani: Mtsvane; Teliani Valley: Khikhvi, Kakhuri No 8 (Amber) Winery 97 - Rkatsiteli, Mtsvane, Khikhvi & Kisi, Saperavi Winery 97,Glekhuri – Kisiskhevi Saperavi Qvevri; Dugladze: Krakhuna, Tavkveri; Orgo: Cuvee White – Mtsvane, Kisi & Rkatsiteli, Rkatsiteli, Saperavi; Schuchmann: Saperavi; Pheasant’s Tears: Quinta – Goruli Mtsvane, Chinuri (both white) with Danakharuli, Shavkapito & Tavkveri.
Dan Belmont, director and wine buyer at Good Wine Good People (boutique e-commerce platform, importer and wholesaler).
GWGP has earned the title of the UK's 'Most Personalised Wine Club' according to The Independent (2024). Dan himself has garnered recognition in the industry, being shortlisted for Online Specialist Wine Buyer of the Year in 2024. Dan is also certified American Wine Expert with a WSET Level-3 certification in Wines & Spirits. www.goodwinegoodpeople.com @goodwinegoodpeople @dbcheesynyc
We generally avoid massive depth of stock, and rotate selections so that it encourages discovery of new wines. At any given point we can have up to six Georgian wines available, with Saperavi, and Amber Rkatsiteli as mainstay styles.
Having spent an evening with John Wurdeman, epic warrior-poet that he is, I would be all too keen to include his Phesant's Tears on the list. Particularly the wines from white grapes, like the Danakharuli Goruli Mtsvane – with skin-contact that was textured yet approachable. I was surprised by the recent drastic change in label design, but have come to appreciate them as John leads the vanguard for a new generation of Georgian natural wine.
My top discovery is yet to be imported, so I'll play that close to the vest – but hopefully you won't have to wait long, I'm already laying groundwork there.
However, there are plenty of other opportunities prime for the UK market, like Rezi Tsetskhladze's Pery Wines. The make-up of these wines may change vintage to vintage, but will establish a following as they're known by their bright labelling – Purple or Orange, for example, offering an entry point to quality Georgian wine with incredible value and high drinkability.
