A big fan of all things Iberian Roger Jones lists the wines that took his fancy with full tasting notes
Steve Daniel having conquered Greece has recently set his radar on Spain and last week showcased many of the Iberian beauties at the Hallgarten roadshow, which travelled across the UK.
The maverick Steve Daniel who introduced the finer style of Greek wines into the UK over the past few decades firstly through Oddbins, then through his Novum company (which is now under the Hallgarten umbrella) has recently swapped his moussaka diet for a paella festival.
Spain has certainly been fighting hard to get its huge selection of wines into the UK wine media with more trips on offer than Thomas Cook, and last year introduced the press and trade to regions including Txakolina, Galicia, Navarra, Sanlucar, Montilla-Moriles, Rioja and also strongly promoted quality Cava.
So what could the recently abbreviated Hallgarten Wines offer me?
“We have been busy looking for more awesome producers,” says Daniel. “and have found nine new Spanish producers, including a range of organic wines from Peninsula Vinicultores (Ucles) and wines from Aragon, Ribera del Duero, Montsant, Cuenca, and Majorca. Building on our strength in the Eastern Med, we are adding a series of small volume, high altitude, minerality-driven wines including Bodegas Vinatigo from Tenerife and Bodegas El Grifo from Lanzarote, which will blow your mind.”
So without any further ado lets get into these wines.
Hiruzta Txakoli, Txakolina
Txakoli is an old traditional wine made from the Hondarrabi Zuri grape which in recent years has been making a comeback with much of the development work being carried out by oenologist Ana Martin under the Hiruzta project.
Hiruzta Txakoli, Hondarribia 2017, £11.86
Fresh vibrant citrus, limes, focused, textured, a bright glowing wine that livens up a miserable wet cold day in London.
Hiruzta Txakoli “Berezia” Hondarribia 2016, £15.20
Both wines have 5% Gros Manseng added to the 95% Hondarrabi Zuri grape, this special picking with added age gives a much more elegant wine, still contain the zippy freshness but much more suited to food, it is restrained, elegant and a fabulous example of how good Txakoli can be.
Hiruzta Basque Brut Nature
Creamy and citrus, delicate bubbles, white peaches, grapefruit, fennel a mouthful of lusciousness balanced by a crisp acidity. A rare treat to have a sparkling wine made from Hondarrabi Zuri grapes.
Prados, Pagos del Moncayo, Campo de Borja
The DO region of Campo de Borja, nestles on the edge of Navarra, an area considered ‘The Empire of Garnacha’, with the earliest vineyards going back to 1145. Over 50% of the Garnacha grapes come from 30-50 year old vines.
Under the guidance of influential Louis Geirnaerdt (who runs Axial Vinos which not only owns three Spanish wineries including Pagos, but helps export Spanish wines all over the world ) this winery has been receiving rave reviews the world over and provides exceptional value for money.
Prados Coleccion Garnacha, Campo de Borja 2015, £13.68
Dark red luscious colour with an aroma of mocha black cherries, espresso coffee, balanced then on the palate with luscious strawberries combining to produce a stunning Garnacha.
Prados Fusion Garnacha/Syrah, Campo de Borja 2016, £10.04
Rich fruity nose, hints of jam (but more Provence berry conserve), spices and rich aromas, but then on the palate there is a silky, heavenly palate – a beautiful seductive wine.
Bodegas Lagar de Proventus, Ribera del Duero
Tr3smano Vendimia, Ribera del Duero 2015, £38.12
This is a project made up from three partners with the aim of making something special, which they certainly have. Tempranillo grapes are sourced from old vineyards between 35 and 80 years old from three sub regions: Burgos, Pesquera and Penafiel. Aged for 18 months in new oak, 75% French, 25% American. The purity of this wine is incredible, silky, vanilla perfume followed by a concentration of ripe red fruit, delicate fine caramel, peppered spice. On the palate it is fleshy but fresh, ripe but elegant, complex and layered but already drinking well, buy it and age before the price goes up.
Xose Lois Sebio, Rias Baixas 2015
‘O Con’, Rias Baixas 2015, £18.94
An Albariño that certainly makes a statement, intense and aromatic, citrus and floral notes combine together to leave a texture palate that also has the perfect acidity. More than anything else it is the depth that makes this wine so special, evolving into a ‘special occasion’ wine rather than one to glug by the pool.
Mas de Les Vinyes
‘Negre’, Montsant 2015, £11.01
A combination of Garnacha 40%, Cab Sauv 20%, Carignan 20%, Merlot 10% and Syrah 10% – the winemaker is Roser Amoros. This is an excellent good value blend that explodes on the palate, it is a vibrant wine with gushes of dark red fruits and violets, dark spices and berry aromas that soften to a silky taste, leaving a joyful palate.
Pago Calzadilla
Small family run estate built in 1980, based in the province of Cuenca, producing expressive but elegant wines.
Calzadilla ‘Opta’ Vino de Pago 2014, £13.03
Calzadilla ‘Classic’, Vino de Pago 2010, £15.19
Both these are made with a high percentage of Tempranillo 60% then Garnacha and Syrah, with the ‘Classic’ also having 20% Cabernet Sauvignon.
The ‘Opta’ has a velvety purity to it, the freshness is in abundance, with the clean perfectly picked berries being showcased in this wine whilst the ‘Classic’ has an added dimension from the Cabernet Sauvignon and, of course, four extra years in evolvement to produce a stunning elegant wine that has that bit more complexion and depth and a real bargain at this age.
Bodegas Vinatigo, Tenerife
The philosophy behind this Bodega set in Tenerife is to revive and showcase the extensive heritage of grape varieties from the Canary Islands, such as Listan Blanco, Gual, Vijariego and Negramoll. Winemaking is on the ball with concrete eggs in abundance. The Bodega produces a huge range of wines and the ones on show from HDN are known as the ‘Varietals’, they produce three other ranges; Classics, Ensamblajes and Ancestrales.
Vinatigo Marmajuelo, Mazape, Islas Canarias -Tenerife 2016, £18.20
A powerful white wine with stone fruit, some passion fruit, intense aromatics and then a lingering bright aftertaste
Vinatigo Gual, Islas Canarias – Tenerife 2016, £18.20
Clear bright wine, jasmine, melon, tropical fruits, buttery and full flavoured.
Vinatigo Negramoll, Islas Canarias – Tenerife 2016, £20.20
Red wine, deep cherry colour, fresh vibrant modern Pinotage style, gentle toffee with fresh berries.
Bodega Biniagual, Mallorca
The Bodega combines heritage old local grapes with international varieties. Its top wine Finca Biniagual Gran Veran is a class act, and the Biniagual hamlet is a rarity as living here is granted exclusively to the employees of the Bodega. The whole village has been lovingly restored by the workers, and certainly worth a visit to see the perfect place to live.
Memories de Biniagual Negra 2013 £15.85
40% Mantonegro, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Syrah. Cabernet-led with a silky texture, clean bright cassis, soft saddle leather aromas.
Dominio de Fontana, DO Ucles, Castile
Two wines here are listed for their exceptional value – Garnacha Syrah, Ucles 2016 and Tempranillo Syrah Roble, Ucles 2015 both listed at £7.99
The Garnacha is a vibrant fruit-driven wine with rose petal aromas, (delightful served chilled) whilst the blend is beautifully balanced, textured and fresh.
There were many more that could have been added, others were more funky and could excel in other tasters opinions, but overall a delightful entry for Hallgarten into the hidden depths of Spain.
All prices are ex VAT to the Trade before discount.
