It's always a pleasure to visit One Great George Street for a wine tasting and once again this year Mentzendorff held its annual portfolio tasting at this grand, impressive building just off Westminster’s Parliament Square.
As it happened, on the day of the tasting (one of those bright, crisp spring mornings where London looks a million dollars) there was also a Westminster-based farmers protest of some sort, so coming out of the Underground station it was difficult to tell which of the tweed-sporting, red and mustard-coloured trouser wearing folk were heading for the tasting and which for the protest. Perhaps some managed to fit both in.
Menzendorff is probably best known for its Port and Champagne brands (Champagne Bollinger and Taylor’s Port are leading shareholders) but it boasts a wide and progressive portfolio which is continually evolving.
A new addition for 2025 is Napa Valley’s Spottswoode Estate, who hosted a masterclass on the day (more of which below), after which there was a chance to grab 10 minutes with Mentzendorff’s managing director Justin Liddle.
'Four decades of environmental leadership' was the theme of the Spottswoode masterclass presented by During the Spottswoode masterclass, the estate’s vice president of sales and marketing, Heather de Savoye
Upbeat despite industry issues
“As well as Spottswoode, we've actually added quite a few new things during the course of 2024,” said Liddle. “We had the Fladgate still and sparkling wines, so that now gives us five regions in Portugal that we have agencies covering. Also from Taylor’s we've got a new-limited edition very, very old Tawny Port called Victory, which is being launched here today to commemorate the 80th anniversary of VE day. We’ve seen increasing amounts of interest in this area of old Tawnies, so it's nice to have another limited-edition one.”
The Victory Port has an RRP of £600 so it’s very much at the top end of the price spectrum and is the kind of new product you’d expect from Menzendorff, unlike the other standout newcomer of the day, a zero ABV pink fizz from Provence.
The BEAU VIVA from Maison Saint AIX is the company's first foray in the no and low game.
“We actually looked very hard last year at the no and low category which led us to looking at no-alcohol sparkling wines,” said Lidddle. “This leans into our expertise when it comes to Champagne and sparkling wine and helps us with that category overall,” he added.
Given the duty hammering that fortified wines took in 2024 and now again this year, perhaps an increase in no and low wines will help balance the portfolio? “It will be just a tiny little nibble at the bottom,” laughed Liddle.
“In terms of duty, last year saw a seismic change for us and that’s taken a lot of time to work through to the market. In many ways with the duty changes this year, probably the biggest headache was actually just the actual internal logistics; generally speaking, we have been in a cycle of producing one price list a year and now that can't really happen because a vintage change might bring a half degree change in alcohol. So we are now having to be a bit more dynamic in terms of the way that we produce our price list.”
"The consumer wants to buy wines that have a story... and that leans into our portfolio quite well.” Mentzendorff MD Justin Liddle
Despite the many problems facing the industry at the moment – which he lists as including duty, extended producer responsibility (EPR), cost increases on the production side and on the warehousing in the UK, and the increase in national insurance contributions – Liddle remains upbeat.
“It's definitely a time that's full of challenges, but the market is very interesting at the moment. We finished last year quite well given everything that we were dealing with and this year there’s a lot of new business and a lot of opportunities out there,” he said. “The things that we're really positive about is that when the consumer is spending they want to buy wines that have a story, that have authenticity, that have more to say about them than just purely the juice in the bottle and that leans into our portfolio quite well.”
“From an eternally positive perspective, we have to believe in what we're doing, we have to believe in our portfolio and what we're offering to the market, and that certainly seems to be paying dividends. But it would be quite nice to have a few winds on our backs rather than on our faces,” he added.
Bollinger's Charles-Armand de Belenet and Etienne Bizot (l-r)
There’s certainly plenty to believe in when you see the complete portfolio laid bare at an event like this. From new Champagne additions like the Bollinger PN VZ19 and Ayala Le Blanc de Blancs A/18, to classic old school wines from Italy, France and Iberia and bright, modern wines from South Africa and the USA it’s a delightfully put-together collection.
Here’s a snapshot of some of the new and/or most interesting wines of the day
Ayala Le Blanc de Blancs A/18
One of the few Champagne houses to zone in on Chardonnay, this is the latest iteration of Ayala’s signature vintage blanc de blancs. Grand Cru and Premier Cru sites in Côte des Blancs and the Montagne de Reims provide the fruit, all from the 2018 vintage. This comes in a clear bottle, but is wrapped to avoid lightstrike. It leads with a fresh, mineral note and delicate mousse, with green apple fruit, lemon peel and crushed shortbread biscuit. Really lovely.
Ayala Le Blanc de Blancs 2008
A handful of older vintages of the Blanc de Blancs were available ‘under the table’ following a masterclass earlier in the day, including 2013, 2012 and 2008. It was the oldest wine which really stood out – this is divine; rich and honeyed with butterscotch overtones and subtle apricot fruit. Almost a wine without the sparkle, but a subtle fizz remains and is beautifully integrated.
Bollinger PN VZ19
If Ayala is firmly in the Chardonnay camp when it comes to its Champagnes, then Bolligner redresses the balance with its heavy leaning towards Pinot Noir. The latest wine in its revered PN series is the VZ19, which utilises grapes from the grand cru village of Verzenay. There’s orchard fruit on the nose and palate, as well as red apple, and under-ripe cherry. It’s the developed notes of French butter biscuit on the long crisp finish which really impress.
Maison Saint AIX BEAU VIVA
This is the booze-free sparkling rosé from AIX, and it was turning a few heads at the tasting among journalists and buyers. This is a cut above and is made as a fully-fledged alcoholic wine from Colombard and Carignan grapes before the alcohol is removed via vacuum distillation and the bubbles added with an injection of CO2. It’s fresh and aromatic (rhubarb, pink grapefruit) and is a perfectly good alcohol-free aperitif.
Hamilton Russell Vineyards Chardonnay 2023
There were two vintages of this iconic SA wine on show, the 2023 and the newly-released 2024. The whippersnapper from 2024 was all waxy and lithe and felt a little too young, but the 2023 was fully in its stride. Honeyed with lovely rich tree fruit and lime-flecked acidity it was so smooth and balanced. Sensational stuff.
Laurent Miquel Solas Viognier 2023
There’s always a handful of wines at any given tasting which punch above their price point. This Viognier from Laurent Miquel (RRP £14) took that prize at this tasting. Lush and fleshy with grapefruit and pineapple fruit and a stony, mineral edge this is long and balanced with a floral lift on the finish. Waxy and full, but in no way cloying.
Ponzi ‘Tavola’ Williamette Valley Pinot Noir 2022
Oregon State Pinot pioneers Ponzi held a masterclass during the day which offered a superb insight to their cool climate winemaking, and the unique terroir of the Williamette Valley. “Oregon has the kind of situation where phenolic ripeness is happening at the same time as sugar ripeness, meaning that we have fully ripe, developed, beautiful, complex fruit, just based upon where we're growing it,” explained Ponzi’s chief brand officer Carrie Kalscheuer.
There’s plenty of ripeness in the Tavola Pinot from 2022. Youthful and zippy, this ‘entry level’ wine is a belter, the fresher style adds vibrancy and promotes the grape’s natural spicy notes. There’s cherry fruit in abundance, a cherry bakewell intensity and forest floor complexity.
Ponzi Laurelwood Pinot Noir 2022
The Laurelwood Pinot - made from fruit grown at high-altitude - is way more intense, more juicy, more spicy and more serious. There’s tannin and tar here to mop up the blue fruit and abundant pepper spice. Rustic but rounded.
Spottswoode Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
During the Spottswoode masterclass, the Estate’s vice president of sales and marketing, Heather de Savoye led a discussion on ‘four decades of environmental leadership’ which focussed on the winery’s commitment to the environment and the measures it takes in the vineyard, cellar and wider community to champion environmental-led sustainable practices.
“The environment is very much our priority,” she said. “The narrative began with the idea that if your kids and dogs are going to be playing in the vineyard then why would you use pesticides in the vineyard.”
Following the discussion we enjoyed a mini- vertical of Cabernet Sauvignon, going back to 1995, which was the highlight along with the 2006, which is savoury and concentrated with black cherry fruit, and a brisk acidity. Balanced and velvet-like in the mouth, it has a delicious fruit-filled finish, and closes with a flourish.
Spottswoode Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1995
1995 was a ‘classic Napa vintage’, according to Heather de Savoye, not too hot and cold at night. This has aged beautifully, it may have turned tawny in colour but remains fresh and light-footed. There's plum fruit, prunes even, but it’s plush and polished, tight and concentrated.
“Many other producers are circling back to this style of freshness,” says de Savoye who also warned that “Napa Valley is just going to get hotter and hotter and hotter, and we worry that eventually Cabernet Sauvignon won’t be viable anymore.”
With this in mind Spottswoode has planted an experimental vineyard of a dozen drought-resistant varieties including Touriga Nacional and Falanghina. The next step, it seems, in its sustainability mission.
Taylor’s Port x Vinte Vinte Chocolate
What better way to wrap-up a wine tasting than with a glass of Port consumed from an edible chocolate shot glass? Another new addition to the Mentzendorff portfolio this year is the Taylor’s Port Cup gift pack, which is a collaboration with Portuguese chocolatier Vinte Vinte. The unique experience is designed with the sharing occasion in mind; each pack contains a 37.5cL bottle of Taylor’s LBV and eight dark chocolate cups. A delicious way to end the day, and no washing up!
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