“These wines deserved my time. When I returned to the UK, I frequently ended up in conversation with fellow wine writers about New Zealand wine and whenever their name cropped up, there was always consensus that this was one of the country’s most exciting producers,” Neal Martin.
The Donaldson family that lies at the heart of Pegasus Bay’s success
During a gap year in Europe in 1975, Ivan Donaldson was given a book by his girlfriend (now wife) Christine; this romantic gift turned out to be one of Hugh Johnson’s esteemed wine books, and transformed their lives. This encouraged Ivan to visit vineyards across Burgundy and Germany and, what at first was a hobby with like-minded friends planting his first vines in 1976 in Christchurch, New Zealand, became a commercial reality with the setting up of Pegasus Bay in 1986, based in Waipara due to a better climate than Christchurch.
I met up with Ed Donaldson, Ivan’s son, recently in London, who expanded the story and said that he and his brothers were ‘encouraged’ from a young age to tender the vines, whilst his father continued his ‘day job’ as a neurosurgeon. Both his father’s job knowledge, and the need for a keen, good value workforce explains, so Ed says, why he and his brothers were never allowed to play rugby!
The Pegasus Rieslings
Pegasus Bay prides itself in producing unique (for the New World) Rieslings, these are some of the very best Rieslings that I have enjoyed over the years, especially with age and food, and were always a major part of the wine list at our Michelin-starred restaurant The Harrow at Little Bedwyn. Pegasus Bay makes four different Rieslings, in addition to the more entry-level Main Divide Riesling.
The long, lingering autumns of the region allow these Riesling grapes to hang longer especially for the Reserve wines. The Estate Riesling also has a small proportion of botrytis grapes to give its unique style. This style of wine is very European, and certainly with the reserve wines are ideal with fine dining and offer great value compared to some of the star names from Alsace and Germany.
The Pegasus Bay vineyard
The vineyard is located within the Waipara Valley of North Canterbury, on free -draining, north-facing terraces. It benefits from being in the sheltered part of the Teviotdale Range, giving maximum protection from the Pacific’s easterly breezes and thus creating an unique microclimate. The vines are over 30 years old, with a large proportion planted on their own roots. They are located on the Glasnevin Gravels where greywacke stones, silt and loam have been washed down from the mountains over the millennia.
The soil is of low fertility, resulting in naturally reduced vine vigour which produces low yields of optimally ripened, high quality, flavourful grapes, which fully express the qualities of this unique terroir. The vineyard has warm days, but the nights are amongst the coolest in the Waipara Valley, drawing out the ripening period of the grapes, while still retaining good natural acidity.
An explanation of styles and labels
The Aria Riesling 2020, includes 50% botrytised fruit
The Main Divide Riesling
Sourced from outside the Glasnevin Gravels on the main home estate, from the Southern Alps, some grapes are also left to hang longer to get the ‘noble’ effect. But these are more modern in style and offer a stepping-stone to the Pegasus Bay range of Rieslings. As the family buys up more vineyards these wines are becoming more Pegasus in style.
The Estate Riesling
All about texture, citrus, quince and gravel. This does contain a small proportion of botrytis grapes, to give it its unique style, and this is a wine that will age beautifully, for a decade or more.
Bel Conto Dry Riesling
First of its Reserve wines made only in exceptional years that are good for the development of noble botrytis. After an extended hang time, the bunches are hand-selected with a portion of botrytis and a ripeness of approximately 25.5 Brix. The free run juice is then fermented slowly at cool temperatures to help the wine retain its vibrant fruit characters and varietal purity. Alcoholic fermentation was left to continue until dryness was achieved. At all stages, the wine was handled very carefully to help retain a little of its natural carbon dioxide. This has resulted in a small amount of spritz, which adds extra liveliness to the wine and accentuates its freshness.
Aria Riesling
The sister wine to the Bel Canto Dry Riesling. After an extended hang time, the bunches are hand-selected with a portion of between 30-50% botrytis and a ripeness of approximately 28 Brix. The grapes are then gently pressed, and the juice fermented slowly at cool temperatures to help the wine retain its vibrant fruit characters and varietal purity. At all stages, from fermentation to bottling, it is handled very carefully to help retain a little of its natural carbon dioxide to give the wine freshness.
Encore Riesling
Only made in exceptional vintages, being dependent on specific conditions at the end of the season that lead to noble rot. This wine is made in the style of an Alsatian Selection des Grains Nobles, or a German Trockenbeerenauslese. Riesling grapes are left to hang until late autumn, and then handpicked, choosing the most best noble rot fruit. Further hand selection was carried out in the winery, retaining only the best berries. These were gently pressed, and a small amount of very rich juice obtained. This was transferred into tank, where it is left to gradually ferment at low temperatures over many months, to preserve varietal purity and help the wine express the unique characters of the region
Tasting the Wines
Main Divide Riesling 2022
Bright, textured layers of Pear William, buttery, with hints of slate – spritz fresh and vibrant with a glowing feel. A great way to start your experience of these styles of Rieslings; good as an aperitif or with oysters.
Pegasus Bay Estate 2020
Textured, layered, full flavoured – lemon curd, clementine zest – evolves on the palate, with great texture, freshness and lingering fruit-filled flavours. Try this with tempura shrimps or sushi.
Bel Canto Riesling 2020
Hints of clementine, quince, spice, and tropical fruit in this bright, gentle textured, concentrated wine – wow! what great purity, elegance and fulfilment. This wine is that perfect balance of fruit, texture and the acidity that carries it so well. Try this with Wild Mushroom and Truffle Risotto, or a terrine of British game.
Bel Canto Riesling 2015
This outstanding Mosel-style Riesling is just delicious and drinking perfectly now. Notes of orange marmalade abound with texture, rich, intense spiciness that lifts it from crescendo to crescendo – just outstanding. Try this with Grilled Orkney Scallop, Black Pudding & Foie Gras. Delighted that I have a case of this in the cellar and, if you see the 2011 around, do try it as it is also stunning.
Aria Riesling 2020
Up to 50% botrytis fruit, which has been grown shaded to get greater acidity – a lovely fresh acidity that cuts through the luscious fruit with notes of jasmine, honey and ginger jelly. The wine also has more residual sweetness and richness – it really is stunning with fine textured and balance. Matches well with Thai food or Venison with Morels.
Encore Riesling 2007
Creme Brûlée, lemon meringue, clementines, spices and lime. Mouthful of delicious full throttle wine that eases away on the palate. Golden colour. Try it with salty Blue Cheese and Pear Sorbet.
In conclusion
The Pegasus Bay estate when Roger Jones visited in 2014
It has been fascinating to see these Rieslings continue to evolve and bring so much joy. The levels of sweetness are perfectly balanced, and this is why Donaldson explained that putting a ‘sweetness chart’ on the back label would not work – these are wines for the purists and for consumers who want a fabulous experience.
Pegasus Bay is not just about Riesling, however, its range of Pinot Noir has evolved beautifully over the last decade, as has its Bordeaux blends. Its ‘Second Tier’ wines are released under the Main Divide label, originally sourced from neighbouring farmers but over recent years the Donaldson family has been buying and planting its own vines for this label, and now owns up to 80% of the grapes – this label offers excellent value and quality.
Pegasus Bay wines are imported and sold in the UK through New Generation Wines.
