If you were to ask many wine consumers in the UK what grape(s) go into Rioja, the answer may well be disappointing to most of us in the drinks trade. This gap in knowledge is something Rioja’s governing body is tackling head-on with educational programs, like the Rioja Wine Academy, which has seen 20,000 students enrol in online courses. It also held three ‘Rioja Camps’’ for trade professionals this year, underscoring its commitment to elevating the region’s profile and educating the wine community on the Rioja region and where it is heading.
The recent Rioja 100km of Diversity tasting in Edinburgh was a chance for Scottish buyers and professionals to get a deeper understanding and spark a renewed excitement into what Rioja can offer customers across the premium on and off-trade.
We are certainly witnessing a return to greater diversity in Rioja’s wine styles, especially in the growth of white wines, which now make up 10% of the region’s production - double what it was in 2012.Nowadays the region offers a fantastic range of sparkling wines, rosés and many expressive white styles, from zesty, citrusy profiles to the oak fermented, umami-driven, oxidative numbers.
Leading sommelier Stuart Skea was able to share his insights on Rioja at the tasting
At the tasting there was a chance to join Stuart Skea, an experienced and highly respected sommelier at Lyla, one of Edinburgh’s leading fish restaurants, who shared his insights on Rioja’s emerging “Garnachistas”. He highlighted Arizcuren (Element Wines), a brilliant little urban winery with a dedicated following.
Stephen from Element Wines told me Arizcuren is focusing on Garnacha and other Mazuelo alongside Tempranillo, as the heat of Rioja Oriental could often be too much for Tempranillo. Arizcuren is a prime example of Rioja Oriental’s potential, even if its SoloGarnacha is not officially classified as a Viñedo Singular as it comes from two sites.
Its wines, with vines grown at 400-600m, showcase the terroir of Rioja Oriental. Particularly its red fruit-driven, silky expression of Garnacha which reflects the character of its specific vineyard sites.
Wine walks
One of the highlights of the tasting was the chance to join Isobel Salamon, a certified Rioja educator, on one of her guided ‘wine walks’ where she took visitors through the tasting room with informal introductions to producers, picking out highlights from their tables. It proved to be a great way to engage and discover standouts from each table.
Salamon is also a fan of what Garnacha is now achieving in Rioja: “Garnacha has much more propensity to translate terroir,” she says.
As Rioja moves away from overt oak flavours and focuses more on terroir, Garnacha is set to shine. With its resilience to heat and adaptability to the landscape, Garnacha’s role in Rioja is only likely to grow.
Edward Almond says his "appetite" was very much "whetted" by the Rioja 100km diversity tasting
Working with Scotland’s top restaurants, I relish the opportunity to present wines like those from López de Heredia. These are wines made for pairing with complex dishes—a sommelier’s dream, especially on those rainy, dreich nights. López de Heredia has been a benchmark for both reds and long-aged oxidative whites and rosés, perfect with umami-rich dishes like mushroom or truffle. As Stuart Skea observed, it’s hard to find a region that can offer such a spectrum of food-pairing possibilities as Rioja.
Telling stories
At WoodWinters, we love to tell the story behind each bottle, helping customers connect to a wine’s origins and character. With Rioja, this storytelling is essential. The Viñedo Singular category has opened a new chapter for wine professionals - a window into the uniqueness of Rioja’s terroir.
One of our producers, Juan Carlos Sancha, exemplifies this with his Peña el Gato range, with gnarly bush vines at altitudes of 650m in Rioja Alta that Juan tames by hand and mule. These wines resonate with our customers, not just for their quality but for the narrative they carry.
They represent a place, a time, and a tradition that customers appreciate when they uncork a bottle.
Sarah Jane Evans MW hosted one of the masterclasses at the Rioja 100km diversity tasting
But what should retailers and restaurants put their Rioja focus on? In my view both its traditional and modern wines still have vital roles to play. Many customers, for example, still gravitate towards classic Rioja styles, and who could blame them? La Rioja Alta’s new Selección Especial 2015 is a perfect example - comfortingly traditional, old-school Rioja. Yet as customers at higher price points become savvier, there’s growing interest in innovative approaches like those from Juan Carlos or Arizcuren.
White Rioja can be trickier to navigate for consumers, given its wide stylistic range. Some producers have started incorporating Sauvignon Blanc and Verdejo to meet demand for fresh, zippy whites, however it is the oak-fermented umami-driven whites that I see as essential to Rioja’s identity. There’s simply too much personality in this region’s indigenous whites to blend in with the rest.
Elegance and versatility
Rioja’s story today is one of rediscovery, where traditional elegance meets modern versatility. As wine professionals, we are fortunate to see this evolution unfold and to share Rioja’s diverse and compelling offerings with our customers. From entry-level bottles to nuanced Viñedo Singular wines, Rioja continues to provide both value and complexity—a true testament to a region that keeps surprising us, one sip at a time.
This Edinburgh tasting underscored that Rioja’s story is far from complete. As we continue to explore and share these wines, Rioja’s blend of quality, character, and versatility makes it an inspiring choice for the on-trade and a promising contender in the premium market.
Here’s to exploring more of what this exceptional region has to offer - my appetite has been whetted.
My highlights from the tasting
Whites
Bodega Vinicola Real, 200 Monges 2011 (Wanderlust Wine)
A real highlight in Sarah Jane Evans MW masterclass. This I would put in the waxy camp. Almost like an aged Savennieres. Lemon peel, dried chamomile, peach and toast.
CVNE Monopole Clásico Reserva 2020 (Hatch Mansfield)
Even compared to Tondonia Blanco this is unusual. The Clásico was relaunched in 2015 after a hiatus due to not being in vogue. This has a short period of flor ageing giving a gorgeous salty nutty twang to the lemon oil & dried peaches. As a bonafide Sherry nut I want more of this in my life.
Juan Carlos Sancha Maturana Blanc 2023 (WoodWinters)
Burgundy eat your heart out. Juan Carlos ferments in oak and ages for a further five months. Having tasted the 2022 recently I know this will unfurl after a little more time in bottle. Pithy stone fruit, lemon zest a soft oily palate with delicate vanilla and sweet spice.
Ortega Ezquerro Rosado 2023 (Jeroboams)
Bleeding of top wines results in this vibrant energetic claret style rosé. Think strawberries, grapefruit, rhubarb, redcurrants and a dry finish. I for one am ready for more dark rosés.
Reds
Tobelos, Salinillas de Tobelos Tempranillo 2018 (Burridges of Arlington - Viñedo Singular)
A 50-year-old vineyard near to a salt spring with extreme Atlantic influences in one of the coolest and remotest spots of Rioja Alavesa. Ten months in second use French oak results in a lovely pure seductive Tempranillo reflective of this cool site in this Viñedo Singular wine. Supple, fine palate. Red fruits, fine tight tannins. Stunning delicate herbs and a hint of spice and toast from oak.
Juan Carlos Sancha, Pena el Gato, Garnacha Vinas Centenarias 2022 (WoodWinters- (Viñedo Singular)
Dense black fruits with notes of smoke and dried flowers. Great complexity showing the power and intensity of these gnarly old vines.
La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva 904 Seleccion Especial 2015 (Hallgarten)
A classic for a reason. Stunning dried red cherries, figs, strawberries, tobacco, truffle, coffee. Of course, this will age gracefully for at least the next 20 years, but it is delicious even in youth.
- The tasting was organised by Rioja Wine UK, the marketing arm of the Consejo Regulador de Rioja D.O.Ca.
