2024 marks the 12th edition of the Sud de France Top 100 which helps celebrate wines from Occitanie, currently enjoying am 11 per cent spike in volume sales in the UK and 17 percent rise in value*. The recent unveiling of the wines was hosted by new judging chairmen, Susie Barrie MW and Peter Richards MW.
Richards and Barrie re-tasting at the Sud de France 100 event, London
Richards was on cheerfully bullish form, particularly in his reflections on this year’s judging panel which he describes as being, “no better line up of judges given their overall experience and depth of influence.” Including some of the most powerful UK wine buyers and journalists, Richards is right in his assertion.
The rigorous tasting of the 403 entries, took place over two days, with Barrie and Richards joining on day two, to whittle down the pick of the judges to give us the Top 100.
A quick scan of the results raises a couple of obvious questions. There are just five still rosé wines, which seems surprising. “It’s very much a reflection of the number of rosé wines entered. We would like to see more in future years, as when we visited the region, we found so many characterful rosés,” comments Richards.
Sarah McCleery and Oz Clarke sharing observations
Quizzing the representation of white wines, Richards add that, “it would be good to have more whites, as there are some really exciting wines out there, and a lot of innovation too.”
The prices of the wines were also noteworthy, with as many as half the wines commanding a RRP of £20. Whether this is a shift towards higher-quality wines or cost increases is open to debate.
Before we move on to some of my favourites from the Top 100, it merits mention that I would hope that in future years there will be some representation of the lighter-style red wines that are being made in the Occitanie, and which are in demand in the UK market.
My highlights of the Sud de France Top 100
A pair of truly excellent Clairette wines were a delicious reminder of this grape’s potential. More usually found in blends, I was delighted to taste it strutting its stuff solo. Héritage – An 77 2023 (RRP £15 to £19.99, Bibendum) is an unoaked example from the Gérard Bertrand stable. I enjoyed its moreish tropical citrus fruit with just a touch of baking spice. Lees ageing gives body and texture. Plenty about this wine to suggest it’ll age nicely too.
Calmel & Joseph’s Les Crus – L’Astre Divin is a trophy-winning wine, imported by Daniel Lambert (RRP, £20 to £29.99). 20% oak ageing hasn’t taken anything away from this vibrant, herbal, pear and apricot flavoured wine. Surprisingly engaging; the sort of wine you want to go back to time and again. Undoubtedly a foodie favourite.
In summary: we all need to drink more Clairette.
The standout blended white was also the Best White of the Top 100. Domaine de la Cendrillon les Vieilles Pierres Blanc 2022 is inexplicably looking for distribution, though several of the domaine’s wines are available through Tanners. Located in Corbières, the family estate has been organically certified since 2008. The wine is a sumptuously elegant blend of Marsanne, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Grenache Gris.
I found one red in the line-up that I envisaged could be served very lightly chilled. Domaine La Voûte du Verdus Cinsault Natura 2000 is confusingly a 2023 vintage. (£15 to £19.99, Ellis of Richmond). I enjoyed its cheeky redcurrant and red cherry personality, and lightly savoury edge. A charming expression of Cinsault, from Saint-Guilhem Le Désert.
Mas du Novi is another estate looking for distribution, and it has secured three places in the Top 100.I found something to like in them all, with the Syrah (70%), Grenache (30%) Ô de Novi my pick of the trio. This AOP Languedoc Grès de Montpellier is laden with crunchy hedgerow, bramble fruit with sprightly tannins too.
The widely celebrated Domaine de Cébène deservedly picked up a trophy for its Felgaria AOP Faugères 2017 (RRP £30+ Vine Trail / James Nicholson) as well as listings for two more of its wines. Fruit comes from high altitude, often north-facing schist vineyards, that contributes to the wines’ undeniable elegance and freshness. Felgaria is 80% Mourvèdre and I’ve rarely tasted an example that better captured the varietal’s character while being so light on its feet.
My final pick didn’t get a trophy, and I think it was robbed! Mas Bruguière L’Arbouse AOP Pic-Saint Loup 2022 (RRP £20 to £29.99, Yapp Brothers) is an oaked blend of Syrah, Grenache Noir and Mourvèdre. The wine is a plump expression of black cherries, blueberries and raspberries too. Hints of garrigue, nicely integrated grainy tannins and a fresh feel from start to finish.
In conclusion
Sud de France Top 100 raised the odd niggle. There are still a fair number of bottles that would struggle to get past a budget airline weigh-in, which seems strange when the area is so rich in organic and sustainably managed vineyards. The sheer number of AOPs, IGPs and permissible grape varieties can feel daunting. It would be so helpful if labels offered more immediate information about what’s inside the bottle.
Curmudgeonly niggles aside the Top 100 showed the depth and breadth of what the Occitanie has to offer wine drinkers. There are premium wines good enough to hold their own on any fine wine list. Grapes like Clairette and Cinsault offer refreshing points of difference. While there were no bargains, as such, some of the wines continue to offer impressive value for money.
*First half of 2023 compared to same period 2022. Source: French Customs
