Many importers and agencies use their spring tasting to introduce new wines and new vintages to the trade and press, which is exactly what Corney & Barrow did at its recent tasting in London’s Belgravia. The sheer depth, breadth and quality of the portfolio was on display with a well curated selection of wines.
Scroll down for our top portfolio wines of the day, and further insights into C&B’s broking service.
My top portfolio wines of the day
Breaky Bottom, Cuvée Marraine Pooks, 2016
It’s not often that the first wine you taste turns out to be the highlight of the day, but in this case the Breaky Bottom fizz from 2016, wine number 5 in a list of over 130 was just that. Stunning and balanced, and fresh, so fresh even after almost 10 years in bottle. Bright, ripe fruit (apples and gala melon), delicious development (shortbread biscuits/cream cracker) with hints at more to come. With Champagne, Cava and Crémant all on show, it was the odd one out from Sussex, made from Seyval Blanc, which stole the show.
Fraser Gallop Estate, Parterre Sémillon Sauvignon Blanc, 2019
This style of white wine from Australia deserves a comeback. As many Chardonnays from Down Under get leaner and more austere, there’s a huge gap for richer, more sappy whites like this. The Sémillon brings weight and flesh with its lychee fruit profile, while the Sauvignon adds a dash of limey acid and aromatic tension. This is good.
Domaine Trapet, Riesling Beblenheim, 2023
Fruit is taken from two chalk-soiled vineyards for this generous and fresh Alsatian Riesling. There’s waxy lemon aromas and a hint of tropical fruit too, plus a herby/ fynbos note. It walks the acid tightrope nicely; not too tight but brisk enough to keep it lean on the finish.
Clau de Nell, Chenin Blanc, 2021
A minimum-intervention, biodynamic Chenin from the Loire that’s bright and focussed with honeydew melon and golden delicious apple notes. A floral lift of lilies and a hint of baked pastry add complexity and weight.
Maison Auvigue, Mâcon-Solutré-Pouilly, 2022
Grown on limestone-rich soils, this Mâconnais is waxy and sun-filled. Apricot and pear fruit dominate with honey and flint. The acidity is just about bold enough to carry all that ripe fruit, and this finishes on a creamy, nutty note.
Domaine François Carillon, Puligny-Montrachet, 2022
Another creamy, dreamy Chardonnay. This time it’s orchard fruit at the fore, specifically red apple. Nice use of oak here; it’s present but not overblown. Balanced and refreshing, but weighty enough to work well with all manner of dishes.
Dr H Thanisch, Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Kabinett Cuvée Christina, 2022
This is cracking; zesty and fresh, herby and long. There’s lemon peel here and white flowers, notes of warm plastic and cordial… plenty going on. Off-dry, which gives it a more-ish finish and begs you back for more. Stunning label too, and only 8% ABV!
Constantia Uitsig, Sémillon, 2021
A spicy, lemon and peach-scented Sémillon that’s fermented in barrel then aged on the lees for around seven months offering some woody notes and an almost tannic bite. There’s tropical fruit here too and a lovely velvet-like texture.
Hyde de Villaine, HdV Chardonnay, 2018
A textbook Napa Chardonnay from this joint venture between the Hyde family of Napa Valley and the de Villaine family of Burgundy. This is fermented and aged in 15% new oak, foudres, and concrete eggs then aged for 18 months with no battonage before bottling, unfined and unfiltered. I was struck by the balance of fruit, richness and acid here. There's lovely development and tropical fruit but it's not overblown or cloying. This has aged beautifully in bottle and is still alive and bright-eyed.
Maturana Wines, Naranjo Torontel, 2023
100% Torrontés from Maule in Chile’s Central Valley. This sees eight month’s skin contact post-fermentation giving it a delicate amber hue. It’s floral with orange peel and mango notes as well as a Campari bitterness. Dry but rich and deftly made.
Domaine Labruyère, Moulin-à-Vent Champ de Cour, 2020
A serious and structured Beaujolais that’s fresh, alive and complex. This is less bubblegum and more bubble tea, given its structure and tannic grip. Raspberry and redcurrant fruit at fore, then red liquorice and forest floor. A really excellent wine.
Domaine Georges Glantenay, Volnay, 2022
Wow! Ripe cherries, earth, zippy acidity, this has everything. Grapes for this sensational Pinot come from eight different plots in the village of Volnay, from vines ranging from 5-60 years old. Long and lush, this is the kind of wine you open for friends but really want to keep all for yourself.
Az. Vitivinicola Nervi, Conterno, 2020
From the Gattinara DOCG this Nebbiolo is outstanding; all red fruit and leather with distinct pomegranate and mineral notes. It’s succulent and spicy and dances on the palate. Seriously good drinking.
Wine & Soul, Quinta do Manoella Vinhas Velhas, 2014
Over a decade old and still fresh and alive, this field blend comprises more than 30 Douro Valley grape varieties. Redcurrant and raspberry at the fore and a polished creaminess on the finish, it has lovely weight and a clean, savoury edge like an expertly sharpened blade.
Fraser Gallop Estate, Parterre Cabernet Sauvignon, 2020
My note begins: this is the one, and that’s not a Stone Roses reference. A delightfully classic Cab Sauv from Margaret River that’s rich but reined in. There’s perfume and bright black fruit, and just a hint of funk which really elevates this. Elegant, minty and savoury on the finish.
Michelini i Mufatto, GY Malbec Cabernet Franc, 2022
This elegant blend of Malbec (70%) and Cabernet Franc (30%) is crunchy and mineral with gutsy black fruit and lovely soft tannins. The grapes are co-fermented wild in French oak barrels before 18 months ageing.
Cakebread Cellars, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2018
A rich, serious Cabernet; ripe and chewy with blue and black fruit and a delicious dark chocolate undertone. This was aged for 17 months in French oak which has helped to round it off in all the right places, but its power and gravitas remain.
Weingut Kracher, Noble Reserve Trockenbeerenauslese NV
A delight, all honey and marmalade. A breakfast wine, if you will! This TBA from the Seewinkel area of Austria´s Burgenland is alive with apricot and tinned pineapple fruit and a richness that is utterly addictive. A svelte acidity pins it all together, finishing on a fresh but luscious note.
Introducing the broking service
The portfolio tasting also gave Corney&Barrow a opportunity to showcase for the first time the services of its Broking Team.
Corney & Barrow was the first UK wine merchant to establish a broking service in 1992 and from something which began life as an additional service to its customers has grown into a multi-million pound cog in the C&B business.
Customers who use the Corney & Barrow cellars to store wine in-bond can use the broking service to sell on cases and bottles they no longer require to other private collectors or to one of Corney’s many restaurant and off-trade customers.
“Many on-trade customers in particular like to have older vintages of wines to list and sell,” explained Gary Owen, head of the broking team, “so this is a good way of finding the correct wines already housed within our cellars and matching up buyers and sellers.”
Interestingly this opens up the whole fine wine world to existing C&B trade customers as the company is able to offer wines from producers they don't have exclusive rights to in the UK if one of their private customers is storing wine from that producer in their cellar and is willing to make a deal.
This was a very useful service to shine a light on at the tasting, and in order to showcase this there was a table of Broking Wines, the highlights of which are reviewed below, alongside 18 stunning wines from across the breadth of the C&B portfolio.
Broking highlights
Domaine Leflaive, Bourgogne Blanc, 2016
Gentle and floral, long and fresh with ripe tree fruit and orange blossom. This has aged beautifully.
Domaine Michel Lafarge, Volnay Mitans 1er Cru, 2017
Pretty with rose petal notes and subtle hints of rose turkish delight. So delicate and balanced but not shy, there’s guts and earth here hiding in the shadows.
Château Latour à Pomerol 2000
Rounded, ripe, earthy and rich, just what you’d expect. Plum fruit, chewy tannins, tar and truffle. Splendidly on point.
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