Such depth and structure already on the new wine – the fruit picked entirely from one vineyard where the youngest vines are 68 years old.
Altitude in wine is a hot topic, something much discussed at the most important tables in the trade and it played a part at a recent Rioja masterclass in London hosted by Marqués de Murrieta to launch the latest vintage of its top wine Castillo Ygay as the tasting was held on the 32nd floor of The Shard, London’s tallest building.
Up here at 110 metres above sea level the views were stunning, as were the wines, but the truth is these wines would have impressed in any environment and with any view. The setting always helps when tasting and appreciating a wine but sometimes what’s in the glass can transcend everything, and this was one of those times.
Marqués de Murrieta is a Rioja pioneer established in 1852 and all its wines are made from estate-grown grapes from the bodega’s own vineyards at Ygay near Logroño. What stands Marqués de Murrieta apart from many other Rioja producers is its respect for traditional methods and the insistence that all wines are aged in wood for a minimum of two years; in the case of Castillo Ygay this is much longer, often in excess of 36 months.
The new wine – the Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial 2009 – was shown alongside four other vintages of Castillo Ygay, going back to 2001, which offered some useful perspective on this famous Rioja.
Here’s a rundown of these top Riojas tasted at the top of London, including two whites.
REDS
Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial 2009
In 166 years this is only the 53rd vintage of Castillo Ygay, which speaks volumes about how important it is to have the perfect fruit for a wine like this. All Castillo Ygay fruit comes from a single vineyard called La Plana which is planted at 485m above sea level on a plateau – the youngest vines here were planted in 1950.
The 2009 comprises 81% Tempranillo and 19% Mazuelo and has been aged for 26 months in 225-L American and French oak barrels; the Tempranillo was aged in American oak, the Mazuelo in French. It has an earthy, spicy nose with baked plum and marzipan, while the palate is silky and rich with redcurrant and raspberry fruit, a touch of forest floor and a fresh, herby finish. Such depth and structure, but still so very young and likely to age very gracefully indeed.
Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial 2007
A riper, richer take but still unmistakably the same wine. This has a lush lick of blackcurrant juice as well as riper, more baked red and black fruit. 5% more Tempranillo than the 2009 which may account for the added black pepper spice and spikier tannins. There’s a herby zest too and wonderful poise; such a stylish and long wine, and it’s ageing beautifully.
Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial 2005
There’s even more Tempranillo in the blend here (89%) and this is the biggest wine yet. It’s a full-on assault on the senses with fruit and liquorice and black pepper all vying for attention. There’s wonderful texture and you can feel the weight of the wine and its reputation in the mouth… it just needs a little longer to settle down and relax.
Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial 2004
This was a cool vintage in Rioja but the fruit was of such great quality that a Castillo Ygay wine was released. With 93% Tempranillo and 7% Mazuelo it’s a generous and full wine that’s silky and balanced with incredible integration between fruit and oak. There’s a richness here that showcases both the ripe black fruit and the savoury tapenade and leather characters.
Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial 2001
Comprising the same blend as the 2004 this is an altogether different proposition. It’s mineral and delicate, but not flimsy. There’s strength in its knife-edge poise and confident expressions of redcurrant and blackberry fruit, truffels, burnt caramel and earthy minerality. Deeply impressive.
WHITES
The lunch was topped and tailed by two white wines from the Marqués de Murrieta stable, including a rare treat from 1986; a glimpse back to a time when Paul Simon’s Graceland topped the album charts and Mick Dundee made his debut on the silver screen!
Capellania Rioja Blanco Reserva 2013
Made from the Viura grape and from vines planted in 1948 this is a rare and interesting white which shows its age elegantly. During production it spends 16 months in French oak (six months new) and this is clear on the nose which is shot through with honeysuckle, guava and vanilla. On the palate it’s mineral and mouth-filling with toffee, lychee, ripe red apple and tropical fruit. Chewy, rich and totally unique.
Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial Blanco 1986
A real treat to pull from the cellar and it didn’t disappoint. First the figures: this has spent 252 months in American oak, 67 months in concrete and 4 years in bottle. It was released in 2016 and like the Capellania is made from 100% Viura. It remains remarkably fresh and zippy with bruised pear and burnt apple characters, chewy oxidative notes and a hint of vanilla toffee. Magic with hard cheese.
