Last year marked the beginning of my wine-writing adventure. Wine writing often carries an allure, seen as an enviable profession by many both inside and outside the trade. It’s true – the world of wine is captivating – but the journey is often as intricate as the vintages we savour.
A pivotal moment in my journey occurred during a conversation with a friend at Decanter. We were discussing Ukrainian refugees, my family was hosting at the time and, naturally, the topic of Ukrainian wine came up. My Central European heritage (often mistakenly referred to as Eastern European) and the inherent borderless quality of grape varieties – wouldn’t it be easier to be a vine, free of borders? – also inspired me to explore the subject. That’s where my wine writing journey began.
Earlier this year, I contributed my first piece to The Buyer, focusing on Schiava. This article (which you can read here) was a labour of love, born from my enthusiasm for this unique grape variety and the passionate producers dedicated to preserving its heritage for future generations. The tasting that inspired this piece was led by my brilliant friend, Walter Speller, whose notes I had previously edited during my tenure with Jancis Robinson. Editing Walter’s work taught me invaluable lessons about wine’s depth and complexity.
Since leaving Wines of Hungary to broaden my scope, I’ve been incredibly fortunate. Steven Spurrier introduced me to unforgettable experiences: savouring a 1996 magnum of Le Pin and witnessing the artistry of icons like Gaia, Frescobaldi or Torres, meeting them personally. Back then, I knew a lot less of wine’s depths. Watching Steven fly across the globe, tirelessly championing deserving winemakers, further inspired my never-ending mission to highlight hidden gems and unsung heroes in the wine world.
As a cherished memory, I often recall one of my first ventures deeper into the wine world: blending The Society’s Hungarian White in Eger, Hungary, for The Wine Society. Tailored to the UK palate, this wine sold over 10,000 bottles, marking a milestone in my journey. That moment revealed the intricate craft of blending – the balance of science and intuition – and the profound satisfaction of crafting a wine that connects with people.
Since September, my schedule has been a whirlwind of tastings and research across Provence, Veneto, and Penedès, with numerous London events in between. Each note I write and every producer I interview deepens my appreciation for wine’s diversity. Yet, as we approached Christmas, I felt a need to spotlight some exceptional wines that may otherwise remain in the shadows. So here is a list of wines that represent the beauty and diversity of this ever-evolving and sometimes over-complicated world of wine.
Wine recommendations
1. Polemico País, Viña Laurent, 2022, Chile
A mellow wine, perfect for a cosy Christmas evening. This wine pairs beautifully with a rich and creamy goose dish. It evokes a frosty morning walk with earthy aromas of burning logs, raspberries and strawberry flowers, and a velvety texture. Light-bodied with medium acidity. 150-year-old ungrafted vines. ABV 13.5%. Purchase at Corney & Barrow
2. Licanten Cabernet Franc, Viña La Ronciere, 2018, Chile
Bursting with peppery Syrah-like spice, this wine remains approachable with youthful, supple tannins. Fruity yet underpinned by earthy depth and a meaty texture (probably unfiltered), its energy and mouth-watering length make it unforgettable. 14% ABV.
3. G.H. Mumm Brut Millesime 2016, France
A grand cru Champagne from a challenging 2016 vintage, aged six years on lees. Balancing complexity and elegance, it offers notes of ripe tropical fruits, creamy nuttiness, and a hint of biscuit. Subtle vanilla and lemon mousse lead to a refined, salty finish. I loved its harmony of richness and freshness, with a depth that feels both indulgent and precise. 12.5% ABV. Available here
4. Bouvet Trésor Saumur Brut 2020, France
Loved the energy of this wine, but also its value! Serious yet fun. Notes of smoke, white flowers, lychee, mango, and red apple harmonise into a long, refreshing finish. Elegant and complex. £10 in mixed case at Majestic
5. Poggio Antico, Brunello di Montalcino 2019, Italy
A classic that truly stands out. This vintage offers graphite, lime, and cranberry on the nose, complemented by dark ruby hues with orange tinges. The deep, dramatic balsamic aroma carries a subtle hint of oak. On the palate, fine-grained tannins and a balanced structure deliver beautiful length, polished tangy fruit, and a layer of sandy tannins that streamline the experience. Bright, charming, and reflective of its ideal growing conditions. So young still, with lots of time ahead. 15% ABV.
6. Herdade dos Grous Late Harvest Colheita Tardia 2019, Portugal
100% Petit Marsanne. Botrytis on the nose, aromas of nectarine, nutty and charmingly oxidative with a touch of vanilla, crème brûlée and grape flower... a total delight. This luscious wine focuses on a salty caramel finish, marrying indulgence with precision. This is a delightful dessert wine that pairs beautifully with a variety of after-dinner treats. 12% ABV.
7. Sella & Mosca, Marchese di Villamarina 2009, Italy
100% Cabernet Sauvignon. From an historic vintage, this wine retains youthful vibrancy. Black cherry, refreshing acidity, and supple tannins create a balanced palate with impressive length. A remarkable example of single variety Cabernet Sauvignon ageing gracefully. 13.5% ABV.
8. Kratosija, Tikveš, 2022 Macedonia
A real sense of place, reminding me of an easy-drinking Eastern European red. A medley of red and black berries with whispers of confectionery sweetness and a touch of herbal spice. The tannins are refined and understated, providing gentle support. Exuding an effortless allure, this wine is both sincere and purposeful. 13.5% ABV. Imported by Hallgarten & Novum Wines.
9. Luke’s Pinot Noir, Balfour 2023, United Kingdom
My favourite English Pinot Noir tasted this year. An exquisite cool-climate Pinot Noir, bursting with the flavours of English cherries and subtle spice. Its delicate tannins frame an irresistible, fruit-forward profile. 12% ABV More details here.
10. Harslevelu, Apatsagi 2020, Hungary
One of my favourite whites this year – call me biased but not until you’ve tried it. This Hárslevelű from Somló, Hungary’s smallest appellation, showcases the region’s volcanic heritage. This wine is concentrated and vibrant, balancing its high natural acidity with a touch of residual sugar. Medium gold. Botrytis, honey, petrol, and white flowers on the nose. Oily, concentrated, and bright would be an understatement. Vivid and powerful without losing fruitiness or focus. Vivid, satisfying, layered, with a round length. 13.3% ABV. (I’ve had this at The Winemakers Club but it seems to have sold out online. However they have Furmint and Juhfark and available!)
