Nautilus Estate, the iconic Marlborough wine producer is approaching its fortieth year. In fact, there’s even a t-shirt “Nauti-Forty” to commemorate the estate’s quadragenarian year (thank you Google). Sadly, our lunch host and Nautilus’ winemaker Clive Jones didn’t bring it with him, “I should have shouldn’t I!” he declared.
T-shirt or not Jones, our very own Kiwi bon vivant, guided us through some of the estate’s wine portfolio in the very moody basement bar of Frog, Adam Handling’s Michelin starred restaurant in Covent Garden.
Nautilus Estate’s first vintage back in the mid 1980s produced 200 cases of Sauvignon Blanc which at that time was sold onto the Australian market. Back then there were only 80 wineries in New Zealand, today there are more than 700. Talking of special birthdays, it’s worth mentioning that last year Marlborough celebrated 50 years of ‘modern era’ grapevine planting.
"We know Cloudy Bay, we know Oyster Bay, there’s also Bullshit Bay," Clive Jones, London, June 2024
Lunch followed a remarkable tasting of Nautilus’ wines which kicked off with the 2023 vintage of its flagship Sauvignon Blanc. In many ways this wine is Nautilus’ calling card the estate’s most important commercial product, sold to over 40 countries around the world.
“For Nautilus we look for wines with more palate weight and concentration, with the riper green and tropical flavours. We want a wine with style and substance… We don’t have hard and fast rules we look at site selection, lees work etc.” Clive says of this wine.
Expansion plans?
As Nautilus is one of the medium-sized producers in the Southern Island I wondered if there were ambitions to grow further?
“We don’t want to get any bigger and we have no ambition to grow,” says Jones, “We are also a small part of a larger organisation.” Referring here to wider ownership of the brand by Hill-Smith Family Estates. “It’s a model that works as we’ve had good commercial success with Sauvignon Blanc. We’ve also got strong programmes in place with other varieties.”
Double-edged sword of SB
If growth is not on the cards how does Nautilus view the current New Zealand wine market? With so many Kiwi Sauvignon Blancs available how do they stand out from the crowd?
“The success of Sauvignon Blanc has been a double-edged sword. We’ve got commercial operations coming along and taking advantage of it. We know Cloudy Bay, we know Oyster Bay, there’s also Bullshit Bay. A made-up brand, it happens everywhere certainly Marlborough… we have got together to lift the game,” Jones says, referring here to generic brands with high volume wines which some producers feel are harming the image of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.
Jones was keen, therefore, to discuss the fightback needed to be taken by quality Sauvignon Blanc producers through ‘Appellation Marlborough Wine’ (AMW), a group of 51 Marlborough producers who have banded together to raise the profile of their regional wines. The group works towards a self-imposed set of rules using 100% Marlborough fruit not the generic 85% rule. Wines produced by the AMW group are bottled in New Zealand for complete control of the process and members need to demonstrate some sort of sustainable certification.
When Nautilus was founded 40 years ago there were 80 wineries, now there's 700
Jones says “We are trying to take some of the best bits of the European appellation system. So, hallelujah brothers and sisters! Come join us on our AMW path.”
It’s not just a fight for quality recognition, producers are struggling against climatic shifts too.
“Burgundy has moved a month, we’ve moved 10 days. We still have several tools in our toolbox, we’ve got the advantage that we’re a tall skinny country at the bottom of the South Pacific. I don’t think we’re going to see as dramatic changes. We are seeing impacts. We are seeing compression (window of opportunity for the pick is decreasing) but is Sauvignon Blanc going to lose its mojo, no I don’t think so!”
Tasting of 6 Nautilus Estate Wines (All wines below are 100 % single varietal)
Nautilus Sauvignon Blanc 2023, Marlborough, ABV13%
A challenging season dominated by La Niña conditions brought overcast weather and regular rainfall. This wine is packed with the calling card of great New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs: Gooseberry, lemon peel and citrus notes give way to a more delicate and persistent finish of lemon.
The Paper Nautilus 2021, Marlborough, ABV 13%
Released only in exceptional years this small batch wine is made from hand-picked grapes. For me this was shier by classic Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc standards which I loved. Grapefruit peel and candied orange gives way to orchard fruits. A wine more reminiscent of an Old World varietal expression. Outstanding.
Albarino 2023, ABV 13.5%
Now in its ninth vintage Albarino seems to be finding its feet here in Marlborough. Although most plantings of this variety are found further north in Hawks Bay. Pronounced Apricot kernel on the nose with a bright almost effervescent feel on the palate. Pithy persistence and a citrus finish has the drinker clamouring for more.
Chardonnay 2021, ABV 13.5%
Made with fruit from Nautilus’ own Renwick vineyard the site is full of stony, free-draining soil resulting in low yields. 40 percent of the 2021 blend is from new Burgundian clonal plantings. The wine spent 11 months in barrel, with 20 percent new oak. Burnt butter and toast on the nose releases into a zesty concentrated palate. A flinty note that finishes with delicate white pepper and spice.
Southern Valleys Pinot Noir 2019, ABV 13%
Known to have been a great year for Pinot Noir in the region. Nautilus believes this could be a contender for ‘best yet’ for this variety. Hand-picked with 20% whole bunch ferment with a short time on the skins. All-natural fermentation and malolactic fermentation was undertaken. Bright red and black cherry with intense spicy notes, this wine lingers on the palate in all the right places. Can drink now but has great potential for ageing.
Clay Hills Vineyard Pinot Noir 2020, ABV 13%
Located on the ridge that divides Brancott and Omaka Valleys in the sub region of Marlborough the plot is divided into six discreet blocks. The fruit in this wine was spicy with intense, classic red fruit notes of cherry and cranberry. A drought year made this a challenging one for Nautilus but delicate florals whisper in the glass and a delightful sour cherry tang on the finish.
The Nautilus wines are distributed and sold in the UK by Fells, which is a commercial partner of The Buyer. To discover more about Fells click here.
